Painting - Rotted Window Trim
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Mr. Fixer
06-03-06, 09:10 PM
Not sure I am in the correct forum, but someone probably has run into this issue. I have exerior window trim where moisture worked its way into a mitre joint and the trim is partially rotted about 1.5 inches in each direction from mitre cut. The wood is mushy. Its a big window so replacing the entire trim board on both edges is a big deal.
I have found some material on the web called "Wood Rot" there are also some other brands, but most appear to be a very fluid expoxy mixture that is some how absorbed into the wood fibers, sets up and restores structure to the wood.
Has anyone used such material, how did it work, and are there any cautions to be aware?
Thanks,
Mike
I have found some material on the web called "Wood Rot" there are also some other brands, but most appear to be a very fluid expoxy mixture that is some how absorbed into the wood fibers, sets up and restores structure to the wood.
Has anyone used such material, how did it work, and are there any cautions to be aware?
Thanks,
Mike
marksr
06-04-06, 05:29 AM
It is always best to cut out all rotten wood. Even if you patch, you still need a solid surface to patch. I have never used 'wood rot' but have patched small areas with durhams rock hard putty.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
spdavid
06-04-06, 07:05 AM
I have never used 'wood rot' but have patched small areas with durhams rock hard putty.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
Rock Hard Putty is a great product with a long history.It must be painted after application but I'm sure that's in your plans.Also Minwax makes a product (it's exact name escapes me right now) that is designed to treat the edges of an area of rotted wood after the rotted material is removed to harden it for application of filler.They also make an excellent wood filler (two part type very hard and weather resistant).
I do agree though that replacement of the wood is the better idea if possible.If you do go the filler route make certain you get all the damaged material and don't miss any that's hidden.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
Rock Hard Putty is a great product with a long history.It must be painted after application but I'm sure that's in your plans.Also Minwax makes a product (it's exact name escapes me right now) that is designed to treat the edges of an area of rotted wood after the rotted material is removed to harden it for application of filler.They also make an excellent wood filler (two part type very hard and weather resistant).
I do agree though that replacement of the wood is the better idea if possible.If you do go the filler route make certain you get all the damaged material and don't miss any that's hidden.
Wayne Mitchell
06-04-06, 07:34 AM
I'll add my agreement with the other posters that cutting out the rot is the best way to go if you can't replace the entire piece. I tried an epoxy repair product on a rotted sill years ago. It was a real easy fix, I just sctraped out all the loose wood that I could and filled the area with the epoxy.
The repair lasted for a couple of years until the wood around the epoxy rotted. After that I learned that replacing the sill was a better repair. If you decide to cut out the rotted area make sure you cut well beyond the rot until you reach good, solid wood.
The repair lasted for a couple of years until the wood around the epoxy rotted. After that I learned that replacing the sill was a better repair. If you decide to cut out the rotted area make sure you cut well beyond the rot until you reach good, solid wood.
Jan2
06-04-06, 11:08 PM
You should pull those trim boards off and make sure the structure behind them is sound. The water problem could be coming from behind the trim and that needs to be fixed right away.