Walls and Ceilings - Preparing Walls for Acrylic Tub Surround
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Timinindy
05-22-06, 08:43 PM
I posed a question in the 'Bathrooms' forum regarding preparation of walls for acrylic tub surround that's supposed to be able to be glued to green board and other surfaces. However, I noticed that theyare lacking moderators. The question has to do with drywall (at least in part), so I hope it's ok to post it here instead:
I am putting a new, acrylic tub surround in my rental (I know they aren't the best, but I've spent enough already). It says it can be glued to drywall and many other surfaces. On the short sides (L & R side), there is drywall that is in bad shape and I plan to replace it with greenboard for a solid surface to glue to. I think I read that I should paint the greenboard with a moisture resistant primer, so I assume that I will need to mud and tape the joints and fill the screw indentations even though nobody will see it. Is there a different type of mud that is better for this than the regular green lid 'joint compound' I've been using elsewhere?
The back wall of the alcove is a cinder block (exterior) wall. I was told this can be glued directly to the block, which is what was done before. I plan to clean the surface real well with bleach then wire brush it, but I'm thinking there may be some crumbled spots or indentations and joints (haven't pulled the old out yet). I don't know how long the old one was up, but it had poor adhesion in areas. I suspect it wasn't prepped very well or at all, based upon the other 'work' I've come across in the building.
I'm not even sure if I'll have room, but I considered glueing some of the thin hardibacker to the block, even though it doesn't call for it. The other thought was to patch low areas, etc.. with some floor leveler or some concrete patch. It would be nice to put a layer of something that would insulate between the block and the acrylic, but I doubt that I have room for much more than maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch. (the cast iron tub will not be moving) Since Hardibacker is basically fiber and cement, I assume it would transfer heat (and cold) from the outside just like the block does. In the winter, those exterior block walls are pretty cold.
What would you do?
(My priorities are: 1) solid surface/good adhesion 2) insulate if practical)
I am putting a new, acrylic tub surround in my rental (I know they aren't the best, but I've spent enough already). It says it can be glued to drywall and many other surfaces. On the short sides (L & R side), there is drywall that is in bad shape and I plan to replace it with greenboard for a solid surface to glue to. I think I read that I should paint the greenboard with a moisture resistant primer, so I assume that I will need to mud and tape the joints and fill the screw indentations even though nobody will see it. Is there a different type of mud that is better for this than the regular green lid 'joint compound' I've been using elsewhere?
The back wall of the alcove is a cinder block (exterior) wall. I was told this can be glued directly to the block, which is what was done before. I plan to clean the surface real well with bleach then wire brush it, but I'm thinking there may be some crumbled spots or indentations and joints (haven't pulled the old out yet). I don't know how long the old one was up, but it had poor adhesion in areas. I suspect it wasn't prepped very well or at all, based upon the other 'work' I've come across in the building.
I'm not even sure if I'll have room, but I considered glueing some of the thin hardibacker to the block, even though it doesn't call for it. The other thought was to patch low areas, etc.. with some floor leveler or some concrete patch. It would be nice to put a layer of something that would insulate between the block and the acrylic, but I doubt that I have room for much more than maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch. (the cast iron tub will not be moving) Since Hardibacker is basically fiber and cement, I assume it would transfer heat (and cold) from the outside just like the block does. In the winter, those exterior block walls are pretty cold.
What would you do?
(My priorities are: 1) solid surface/good adhesion 2) insulate if practical)
ritchie_bones
05-27-06, 02:11 PM
its allways practical to insulate-or you will have condinsation if you dont-allways in a shower situation-hope you have an exaust fan!! -if you only have 1/8" to work with-thats not much--id rip out the tub and add new-a lil more $-but the job can be done right then-for now you should at least vapour that block wall and use acoustic sealant---the surround NEEDS to have adhesion--use blue board-mud-tape--do not prime or paint the area to be glued.