Patching and Plastering - Repairing non-factory, horizontal drywall joint
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agianni
05-22-06, 07:51 AM
I just bought a house and I'm putting a bunch of work into it. There is only one room that I'm not hanging wallboard in because the previous owner already did. Unfortunatly, they cut the wallboard in half to get it up the stairs -- I can only guess, we had to lift it to a second story window to get it up there. Anyway, they cut all the board at about 4', restacked it leaving a horizontal joint and taped the seam. All around the room, that joint is cracked. It's a non-factory edge, it's not very tight (touching to 1/4" at places) and there's nothing behind most of it to tack it down to. I already dug out a section of the tape and the joint compund taper to re-do the job, but I don't want to just retape the seam only to see it reappear shortly.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Andrew
Any advice would be appreciated!
Andrew
spdavid
05-22-06, 10:34 AM
Although I am not a drywall expert I can suggest that fiberglass mesh drywall tape would be the type of tape to use.The mesh is far more crack resistant than regular drywall tape.It gives with movement and won't split like the paper tape.It is used similarly to regular tape with compound which is pressed through the mesh.Works great for bridging gaps as well.
DaVeBoy
05-22-06, 05:59 PM
What do you mean by "there is nothing behind most of it to tack it down to"? Why do you feel the need to? Didn't they secure it to every stud?
The fact it is a "non factory edge" should have nothing to do with anything. Butt joints are like a non-factory edge, and they don't crack when done right.
You also said you were able to remove the tape and tapered mud. Really? Did the old tape and mud just easily scrape off?..oir just pop off when yo grabbed the end ofg the tape and pulled on it? Could you tell if the tape was layed into mud? If it came off easily, I am wondering if the mud they used was watered down ready mix, or if it set on them before they got the tape imbedded into it. And THAT could explain the cracking... as then, there would be no integrity between the tape and the sheetrock, as it would have been almost ready to fall off by itself.
The fact it is a "non factory edge" should have nothing to do with anything. Butt joints are like a non-factory edge, and they don't crack when done right.
You also said you were able to remove the tape and tapered mud. Really? Did the old tape and mud just easily scrape off?..oir just pop off when yo grabbed the end ofg the tape and pulled on it? Could you tell if the tape was layed into mud? If it came off easily, I am wondering if the mud they used was watered down ready mix, or if it set on them before they got the tape imbedded into it. And THAT could explain the cracking... as then, there would be no integrity between the tape and the sheetrock, as it would have been almost ready to fall off by itself.