Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - 2 deck questions

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Stevetra
05-16-06, 05:21 AM
Greetings
I have 2 questions about my deck.
I have already secured a permit to replace my current deck.
It was built poorly, with untreated lumber, and has become a liability as more wood rots away.
My deck is simple, 12 X16, about 3 feet above grade at its highest point, freestanding against the house, my finished basement doesn’t allow me to lag to the house without opening up areas in the basement walls, and so I will add posts at the house side for support.
1. My current deck has the deck boards running perpendicular to the house, but I have read that the deck boards should run parallel to the house. I can see pros and con with either, a solid board running the length of the house may trap water against the house, and having the boards but up to the house could leave little openings between each board for water to get in. The area will be flashed, but I am thinking 10 years down the road, and wondering which way is most recommended. My local building department says its up to me.
2. My decking boards will be made of pressure treated 2X6, and I have read that when using pressure treated lumber, you should NOT leave a gap between boards, is this correct?
The logic is that pressure treated lumber is wet, and will shrink as it dries, my thought is ok...but it will expand when its wet...and thats when I need the spaces...

Thanks in advance for any replies.


deckgrasshopper
05-16-06, 06:48 AM
Stevetra -

1. It really is up to you, but you have to consider how much foundation work you have (and trust) and how much you are willing to do. The posts will determine the location of your beam (which in turn sets your joists and then your boards each one perpendicular to the one before).

If your beam is going to run parallel to the house, then your joists should run perpendicular and your boards should run parallel. In this case, I'm assuming your 2 beams will be 16' long with 12' joists and 16' boards. For free standing- you only need 6 posts.

If you decide to run beams perpendicular to the house, then the situation is the opposite. I'm assuming that your 2 beams will be 12' long, with 16' joists and 12' boards that run perpendicular. For free standing, you only need 4 posts total (assuming you cantilver the joists 2' on each end - otherwise - you'll need 3 beams/6 posts)

Have a good look at your existing post foundations - unless you are going to completely redo them as well.

If the deck is freestanding, I don't see why you worry about water much at all. A simple, thorough flashing job will render it a non-issue. Make this choice based on the construction method and ignore the water.

2. You must space all decking. For PT - 1/8" (I'd highly recommend using a composite - but hey - that's another thread)

RYANINMICHIGAN
05-16-06, 01:46 PM
I always wonder where are you located that you have to space PT? I am in Michigan and could not tell you off the top of my head how many decks I have built and I spaced none of them I actually get them as tight as I can. They all develop spacing in a couple of days if not a week. Is it really dry where you are at? Also I do not flash any deck that is free standing. Just leave a small gap between the house and decking for water to escape which should be minimal under eaves.