Water Softeners and Air Filtration Systems - Settings for Culligan Medallist model 2000 ?

Well having a bit of trouble with the settings. We have a model 2000 medalist softener, I was gone for a while and people stayed at the house. Well They Messed with the settings on the control. So now it's set at Default settings. What I need to know is What are the settings to run it at.

1. service or test, normal is service
2. Delay or Immediate regeneration
3. SOF or filter
4. Timeclock Backup off or on ?
5. it's set to english
6. 12 hour mode
7 3/4 or I Meter
these are the first settings
Then setting the microprocessor:

1. TOD time of day
2. TOR regeneration time wqhich is 2:00 am
3. SLtP Salt Dosage it is default set at 10
4. buu Backwash Time it is default set at 10
6. br Brine Draw/Slow rinse Time set at 71 default
7. prog gallons. set at 225 a week
8. Programing Time Clock Backup CAP or tCb it's set every 3 days

Now we had Soft water when we left. now were back it's still soft cause there no rust in the sink and the coffee pot is clean. But the Oily feeling when you take a shower is gone. Now enough salt or brine in the mini tank.

Please can some one help with this. I've been banging my head trying to figure and ask all I knew. at this moment I can't afford a service guy. and charge 100.00 Just to show up at your door.

Thank you

If you can identify the exact model of your softener you might find the owner's manual here ...

http://www.culligan.com/index.cfm/title/Owner's%20Guides/id/10.html

The regeneration settings are determined by the hardness of your water and iron and manganese content among other things. There are no "general settings that work". The flexibility of these settings allows the installer to set the softener up to correctly deal with your water conditions and usage.

To set the softener up correctly there needs to be a complete water test. You might consider calling the Culligan man (or woman).

I've been to the site. I also have a manual, I've tried different settings. but none seem to fix the problem, the softener is just going on 4 years old. So I guess tomorrow I will pull it apart and check it for any blockages. It's not drawing out the brine from the brine tank.

Tnx anyway

Not sucking brine? Check brine injector screen usually found on the control valve around where the brine line attaches.

Make sure the salt hasn't bridged in the brine tank and that there are no air leaks in the brine line. Pour a gallon or so of hot tap water down the brine well (the round tube) in the brine tank. If the salt dried out and is clogging the brine pickup that'll dissolve the salt.

Now would be a good time to throw out that old salt, clean the brine tank, and put in fresh salt. Only one bag to start. After everything is working right and the softener is replacing the water in the brine tank after regeneration then only add as much salt as you need to cover the water. That'll cut down on salt bridging.

Oh, remember to shut off the water or bypass the softener and release the water pressure BEFORE you take the control valve apart :)

Once you' got the problem solved you still need to set the softener correctly.

I did a clean out of the brine tank replaced the salt with one bag at first. I took off the brine line from the control and sucked thru it. thyere was no blockage or leaks in the line. Now the control itself. Should I take it apart and see if there is any blockage?

Now Myself I was a Service Tech for a gas company for 20 years. So I've had experience in installing, reparing, disassembling, Appliances. So I'm not just someone that doesn't know what a gasket is..

I do appreaciete the help.
You also mention to set the softener correctly, Well thats what I need is the settings. Thats why I put the default list on here.

Thanks Lurker

I did a clean out of the brine tank replaced the salt with one bag at first. I took off the brine line from the control and sucked thru it. thyere was no blockage or leaks in the line. Now the control itself. Should I take it apart and see if there is any blockage?

Some control valves require special tools to disassemble AND reasemble so do it at your own risk. The brine injector nozzle and/or screen (that might be clogged) should be in proximity to where the brine line enters the control valve. Exploratory surgery on that control valve will almost certainly result in a more expensive repair being needed than the simple service you require at this point.

Now Myself I was a Service Tech for a gas company for 20 years. So I've had experience in installing, reparing, disassembling, Appliances. So I'm not just someone that doesn't know what a gasket is..

If this were a gas meter you'd probably already have it fixed ;) . I'm sure you have the dexterity and mechanical aptitude to do the job but you lack the specific knowledge required.

I do appreciate the help.
You also mention to set the softener correctly, Well thats what I need is the settings. Thats why I put the default list on here.


As I tried to explain, in order to set the softener correctly we need to know the water conditions (hardness, iron, manganese, TDS, PH, and such from a recent water test), the capacity of the water softener, the SFR of your house, and the number of people. Are you on a well or a municipal water system? Any high volume appliances in the house (whirlpool bath, Jacuzzi)?

Without that info there is no setting your softener correctly.

If I were you I'd call the local Culligan dealer and ask how much to come out, test your water, set and check your softener. They might surprise you.

Consider the cost tuition and make sure you're there to see what they do so next time you might help yourself.