Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Carb Problems On A Older Airens 2 Stage Snowblower

OK heres the stuped problem
i just had the carb rebult installed and is now running rough i emailed the guy about the problem heres what he said

"Whenever a carburetor is rebuilt the adjustment screws are set to what is called a static adjustment. The screws are meant to be adjusted if needed when the carb does not need to be rebuilt but is not quite right. When I do tune-ups sometimes I have to adjust those screws even though the carb does not need to be rebuilt yet. And just leaving the screws set where they are and rebuild the carb and just put it back on wont be set right anymore after rebuild in some cases. The static adjustments are only enough to start the engine. It is up to the person who puts the carb on to make the final adjustments.Then once the engine is running it will be running bad and is possible to be flooding gas. You have to make the final adjustments with both screws to get it running right.
The screw on the left should be for the idle and the one on the right for high speed. I cant tell you exactly how far to turn the screws because it depends on a lot of things about your engine. But I can give you and idea how to adjust it.
Start with the screw on the right should be for high speed. if your getting too much gas, with the engine running you will need to slowly turn it to the right until the engine sounds better and is picking up speed. At this time the carb should stop leaking or leaks slows down. Also after this is done the engine should sound and run real good at full throttle and stay running. now slow down the engine to idling. now adjust the screw on the left. if it shuts off when you try to idle it the idle is too low. Turn the screw to the right to make the idle higher or to the left to slow down the idle.
If you have not done this before make sure you have time and plan on working at it for awhile to do this because I know the first time I did it I had no idea how and it took me awhile to figure it out. Let me know how it goes."

well that did not work :wall: it will not start in idol when i adjust it no matter were i put the high screw it well hold at that speed for a few seconds and than surge up drop down pop and do it all over again i give up i spent 40 bucks getting the carb rebult and its not help and it still leaks gas:madhell: im about ready to take a hammer to it help what am i doing wrong or is the governer messed up cause it does stick a little bit but either way i should run and sound like a power washer well its not whats wrong:wall:

A little more info would help. Is it 2 or 4 cycle? What make is it?
Mike

its a 4 cycle tecumseh engine the carb brand is unknown the things from the 70s it worked before i removed it just leaked gas now it runs pooly up and down no matter where i set the screw and won't start in idle whats the problem:wall:

Two things seem troublesome. First, I think the carburetor wasn't reconditioned well and needs a better job done in such. Second, I'll bet you need a new set of points and condensor.

If you just paid money for a rebuild, take it back to the guy and have him adjust it. If he did a good job it will only take a moment, and if he did not he will have to repair it anyway.

Puey suggested that the carb may have been reconditioned incorrectly, but since it seems you are new to carb adjustments, I would hold off assuming it is the carb and not the settings you have arrived at. The information the repair man e-mailed you sounds correct to me and should have put you back on track. If you have to re-adjust it yourself, I suggest going back to the 'static setting' as your mechanic calls it and try again. Puey also suggested new points and condensor. While it is good advice in general, if you have a good visible spark, I would hold off replacing them until after you iron out the carburator. No need to add additional variables to the repair process.

You said in the initial thread"it still leaks gas", then in the info post you said"It worked before I removed it, it just leaked gas". Does it still leak gas? If so, the float level is set too high. If it leaks gas when just sitting, the float needle is leaking or the float has a hole in it making it lose bouyancy. I think it needs a trip back to the rebuild guy.
You mentioned the gov sticking. Is the gov itself sticking or is the throttle plate/shaft binding?
Mike

This carb has no float its a diaframe type it leaked gas before i sent it out to be rebuild but at least it ran i told him about the problem here is what he said this is the real emal that he sent

"I know that many times on older engines when you correct a problem like the carb then it seems like the engine gets worse before it gets better. I have rebuilt carbs on other old engines, then it ran worse and I wound up changing a bunch of parts and had too much money in it. more then it was worth. If yours is an older engine with points and condenser that guy is right could be the problem because before the engine might have been getting a little gas and a little spark. now its getting more gas and little spark.
Did you check the compression on the engine before you started to try and fix it? If not do that first before you put any more money into it.
Let me know what the compression is" ok how do i cheak compression I don't have a Tester heres the other email he sent

Im thinking there is something else wrong with the engine. Also that intake gasket was as fat as it is for a reason so unless you put the gasket maker that thick your intake gasket is too thin. You are going to have to scrape that stuff off and get the right intake gasket for it. You had mentioned that I did not send you one. Was I supposed to?

so what do i do he runs a small engine repair shop so he knows what he is doing


You said in the initial thread"it still leaks gas", then in the info post you said"It worked before I removed it, it just leaked gas". Does it still leak gas? If so, the float level is set too high. If it leaks gas when just sitting, the float needle is leaking or the float has a hole in it making it lose bouyancy. I think it needs a trip back to the rebuild guy.
You mentioned the gov sticking. Is the gov itself sticking or is the throttle plate/shaft binding?
Mike

I'm going to leave this to the boys that know more than I. I don't recall seeing a 4 cycle tecumseh with a diaphragm carb. But I'm sure I haven't seen all tecumsehs.
Mike

I did a compression test on this snowblower and it read 75 PSI. Now i was told by the guy who rebuilt the carb i should look for at least 90 PSI if so how bad is the engine.

There are very few diaphragm type Tecumseh 4-strokers out there but they are. Normally, with a diaphragm carburetor you will place the gasket next to the carburetor surface and then the diaphragm and then the cover. On some Tecumseh diaphragm carbs you will find an "F" stamped into the carburetor near the air inlet opening. On these, only, you will place the diaphragm first then the gasket then the cover. If, the carb doesn't have the "F" and the technician mistakenly placed the diaphragm first then you will have a leaky carb due to inadequate clearance between the inlet needle and the diaphragm, at rest.

Seventies Ariens with a diaphragm carb on a 4 stroke doesn't sound right. I just did a lot of digging and everything I found had float bowl carbs, from the HS & HSSK50's to the HM & HMSK80's.

Lex, if you could supply the Model number of the Ariens or even a pic, I'd be happy to do some more "diggin'" for you. Seems like you have a "stumper" here. The spec number of the engine would really help.

Tom

well there is no model number on the engine i have a sears 2 stage from the same time ano numbers to be found on the engine heres some pics of it

http://www.coolimagehosting.com/uploads/f2f41ab050.jpg

model 932002


Seventies Ariens with a diaphragm carb on a 4 stroke doesn't sound right. I just did a lot of digging and everything I found had float bowl carbs, from the HS & HSSK50's to the HM & HMSK80's.

Lex, if you could supply the Model number of the Ariens or even a pic, I'd be happy to do some more "diggin'" for you. Seems like you have a "stumper" here. The spec number of the engine would really help.

Tom

O.K. Lex,
I didn't check the 932 series, hope I can find the book.
The engine model number, followed by the spec number are stamped into the flywheel housing, on top, toward the spark plug.
I can see something in that area in your pic.

Hope to have more info for you tomorrow - gotta get some shut-eye.

Tom

Here are the numbers off of the blower houseing thery were stamped into it its a little rusty so heres what the numbers looked like to me

H35-45503H8ET-7271B don't know how correct this number is.

O.K. Lex,
I didn't check the 932 series, hope I can find the book.
The engine model number, followed by the spec number are stamped into the flywheel housing, on top, toward the spark plug.
I can see something in that area in your pic.

Hope to have more info for you tomorrow - gotta get some shut-eye.

Tom

The only question is the "H" at the end of the spec number you gave. I can't find this. Perhaps it is an "M". Otherwise, you have as I described and you need to check for the "F" stamped in the carb body or lack thereof and be sure the gasket and diaphragm are installed correctly. By the way, there is no adjustment for this inlet needle, just the positioning of the aforementioned.

your right heres is the right number

H35-45503M8ET-7271B hope this helps


The only question is the "H" at the end of the spec number you gave. I can't find this. Perhaps it is an "M". Otherwise, you have as I described and you need to check for the "F" stamped in the carb body or lack thereof and be sure the gasket and diaphragm are installed correctly. By the way, there is no adjustment for this inlet needle, just the positioning of the aforementioned.

Mr. 567,
H35-45503M is a GOOD number. It is a 2.7 HP engine used on the Ariens 932000 series units in the seventies. As Puey stated it is a diaphragm carb (631400). It uses kit 631893. The diagram on my fiche shows the assembly order to be - the diaphragm gasket toward the carb body, then the diaphragm, and finally the cover.

You should be able to find mechanical diagrams of the machine and parts lists on the "Parts Radar" section of the Ariens website. The "tractor" section of your unit is probably a 932001, and the "Sno-Thro" section probably an 832002. The gearbox uses Ariens liquid grease 000070 (number probably updated, but should cross easily).

You should check what Puey suggested, and let everyone know what you find.

Thats a decent little machine you have there - git 'er goin'.

Tom

I emailed the guy to see if he installed it that way im in the process of getting a quote to see how much to refresh the engine (new rings gasket and a valve job if needed and new points if i can't file them down i will Know wednesday night what the price is.

ok he said it was installed right


Mr. 567,
H35-45503M is a GOOD number. It is a 2.7 HP engine used on the Ariens 932000 series units in the seventies. As Puey stated it is a diaphragm carb (631400). It uses kit 631893. The diagram on my fiche shows the assembly order to be - the diaphragm gasket toward the carb body, then the diaphragm, and finally the cover.

You should be able to find mechanical diagrams of the machine and parts lists on the "Parts Radar" section of the Ariens website. The "tractor" section of your unit is probably a 932001, and the "Sno-Thro" section probably an 832002. The gearbox uses Ariens liquid grease 000070 (number probably updated, but should cross easily).

You should check what Puey suggested, and let everyone know what you find.

Thats a decent little machine you have there - git 'er goin'.

Tom

Even the best technicians will have an ocassional brainfart. Is he telling you he did it correctly without reinspecting the carburetor or did he visually reinspect it? Sounds like the former to me. YOU need to check the carb for the "F" stamped in and then the proper order of the gasket and diaphragm based on this. If all is correct and the carb has been soaked and reconditioned well AND you still have a fuel weeping problem, it would be time to replace the carburetor assembly. As firepaw indicated, the new carb part number is 631400 and retails for around $65. Check with a Tecumseh dealer for ordering this.

ok there was NO F but there was a H the carbs installed correct and in this order 1.GASKET 2. DIAFRAME 3.COVER that is correct right.

Even the best technicians will have an ocassional brainfart. Is he telling you he did it correctly without reinspecting the carburetor or did he visually reinspect it? Sounds like the former to me. YOU need to check the carb for the "F" stamped in and then the proper order of the gasket and diaphragm based on this. If all is correct and the carb has been soaked and reconditioned well AND you still have a fuel weeping problem, it would be time to replace the carburetor assembly. As firepaw indicated, the new carb part number is 631400 and retails for around $65. Check with a Tecumseh dealer for ordering this.

ok i was told it would be 144 to refresh the engine (new intake gasket rings valves (if needed) now if it has weak spark than i can file down the points right.