Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Hardwood over Foamcrete???
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alek_o
05-03-06, 11:57 AM
Hi Guys,
I would like to install hardwood flooring, but after pulling up some of the carpet, I have noticed that there is a concrete barrier underneath. The building is of wooden frame, but some people have told me that it is a noise barrier called "Foamcrete". My question is whether installation of hardwood overtop is possible. I will be using a compressor aided nail gun that uses 2" nails. Will this be able to penetrate that foamcrete and provide sufficient anchoring? I would like to avoid adding an additional sub-floor and the hardwood is already purchased, so you see my anxiety.
If you can help, please give me a shout @ NO EMAIL ADDRESSES ALLOWED IN FORUMS
Thanks,
Alek :)
I would like to install hardwood flooring, but after pulling up some of the carpet, I have noticed that there is a concrete barrier underneath. The building is of wooden frame, but some people have told me that it is a noise barrier called "Foamcrete". My question is whether installation of hardwood overtop is possible. I will be using a compressor aided nail gun that uses 2" nails. Will this be able to penetrate that foamcrete and provide sufficient anchoring? I would like to avoid adding an additional sub-floor and the hardwood is already purchased, so you see my anxiety.
If you can help, please give me a shout @ NO EMAIL ADDRESSES ALLOWED IN FORUMS
Thanks,
Alek :)
BuiLDPro68
05-03-06, 12:30 PM
I personally have never come across that particular material but I guess I would be asking myself a few questions.
how hard would it be to remove?
since the 2" nails are made to fasten directly to wood at an extreme angle it is doubtful it will fasten correctly through the extra material. I would take a small piece of scrap and tack it down to see how well it holds. It may be you will have to add a thin subfloor (1/4") if the flooring does not want to tack to the cement or it is easier then removing the existing cementboard. I would be more inclined to keep it for it's designed noise suppresion if nothing else.
how hard would it be to remove?
since the 2" nails are made to fasten directly to wood at an extreme angle it is doubtful it will fasten correctly through the extra material. I would take a small piece of scrap and tack it down to see how well it holds. It may be you will have to add a thin subfloor (1/4") if the flooring does not want to tack to the cement or it is easier then removing the existing cementboard. I would be more inclined to keep it for it's designed noise suppresion if nothing else.
Daniel Wachtel
05-03-06, 04:09 PM
Nailing down a hardwood floor over gypcrete is a lost cause. You may want to float an engineered hardwood floor.
BuiLDPro68
05-03-06, 04:26 PM
Nailing down a hardwood floor over gypcrete is a lost cause. You may want to float an engineered hardwood floor.Not a bad idea if you can take what you already bought back.
Daniel Wachtel
05-03-06, 07:35 PM
Returning un opened packages should not be a problem. I assumed that since no product or wood type was named that it was not pruchased yet.
alek_o
05-04-06, 07:48 AM
Yes, the oak hardwood has already been purchased from out of town so returning it would be a big problem. I guess my only real option would be to lay down a sub-floor. Would 1/4" be sufficient? I just don't want to see my floor raised so that it won't be flush with the tiles in the kitchen.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
Daniel Wachtel
05-04-06, 03:50 PM
solid or engineered?