Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Designing deck/level space under huge maple tree

I am trying to figure out how to have a level area behind my house so I can set up an umbrella table, six chairs, just a little entertainment area. The yard slopes a bit and about 20 ft. from back of house sits a huge old red maple. The ground is bumpy, uneven, full of roots, etc. Obviously I can't pour a concrete patio or use pavers, I don't want to kill the tree. It's beautiful and provides lots of shade. I am thinking of a "deck" but only about 6" off the ground? I don't need anything fancy, just a level area to set up a table and some chairs. Am looking for the least expensive way to do this without having it look like crap. Any ideas? I am concerned with digging down around the tree for footers....either destroying the roots or not being able to penetrate them?

Tree roots under a concrete slab aren't a good thing. That will destroy the slab. A deck that is only 6" above grade is going to present ventilation problems. Done properly, it's not a problem. But done wrong, and it will rot in about 5 years.

If you opt for the deck, you have no choice but to dig footings for it. Your plan might be to have a footing every 5', but you'll probably run into a tree root and have to move a footing a foot one way or the other. Just know what your beams are able to span, and don't overspan them. I've done them in the same situation -- it's a lot of test holes for the footings. You hit a root and have to move one footing -- that means you have to move 3 others.

I'm no deck pro, but being that it's so low couldn't they just build it free standing ?

I'm asuming that this deck will be free-standing. The tricky part will be getting the footings dug in places where they miss the large tree roots.

At about 8" above grade, treewoman would be using ACQ 4X6's for the girders and ACQ 2X6's for the joists. These would be attach with LU26 hangers between the girders. The 4X6's would need a footing every 6' or less. The 2X6's can span 6', so there is a row of girders every 6'. Those are the maximum spans, so I would lay it out based on spanning 5' between the footings. Dig a hole, hit a large tree root, and you can move the hole a foot to miss it and you won't be overspanning the girder.

Start with one girder and get all of the footings for it dug. Then move to the next one, 6' away, and dig the footings for it. Once all of the footings are dug, then you pour the concrete and set you post bases -- PBS44's or better. After that has cured for a day or 2, you're ready to start building the deck.

You're the man Lefty. :D