Water Softeners and Air Filtration Systems - o-k what do I do now?

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mjb1972
04-28-06, 06:26 PM
I just got my Watts RO, I want to hook it in the basement and run lines to the kitchen sink. Looks like there three lines that go to the faucet. How long can I run lines from the filters to the faucet without notice any water pressure?


justalurker
04-28-06, 07:16 PM
Did you install the RO after your water softener?

Did you resolve your iron problem? If no, you need to or you'll foul the RO membrane.

Did you install a booster pump?

How far from the RO to the faucet?

There are two lines from the RO to the air gap faucet. One is the brine (waste) water to the air gap faucet and the other is the drinkable RO water that goes by the storage tank and then to the air gap faucet. There is a line that goes from the air gap faucet to drain but that only goes from faucet to drain saddle under that sink.

mjb1972
04-28-06, 07:33 PM
1. Yes I plan on installing after the water softener.
2. Doesn't the water softener resolve the iron problem, if not then how do I resolve the iron problem if it's too high?
3. I'm going to pick up a booster pump at a local dealer that sells them. 60 psi.
4 It's about 15-20 ft I believe that from the basement to the kitchen sink, my kitchen is over a crawl space and I did not what to install there, I thought that I read somewhere on this forum that the max you can go is about 25ft.


justalurker
04-28-06, 07:43 PM
1. Good choice

2. A quality water softener will deal with a max of 4 or 5 ppm of iron (depending on the specific type of iron) if properly sized and setup. Higher iron content than 5ppm will require additional hardware like an iron filter.

3. Get the pump and do the whole install at one time.

4. You might get away with that distance. You've just got to try and find out.

You should resolve all your water treatment problems before installing the RO.

mjb1972
04-28-06, 08:17 PM
Tomorrow when I get the booster pump I'll take another water sample in, get the results and post them.

justalurker
04-28-06, 08:23 PM
That will help a lot. Post the results of the water BEFORE the softener (so we can see what you might need) and results after the softener (so we can see if your softener is up to the job or if it's setup properly). Need to know the BRAND and CAPACITY of the softener. Did you install and setup the softener?

Also need to know how many people, # of bathrooms, any high demand plumbing fixtures (jacuzzi)?

mjb1972
04-29-06, 08:11 AM
O-k just got the water tested, the raw water is 26 parts of hardness and the treated is 1-1.5 part. Have 2 baths, one with a whirlpool tub. The water softener is made by sunshine, the softener was here when I bought the house -has a date stamp of 92'. the setting on the softener is set at 10 lbs of salt.

justalurker
04-29-06, 08:50 AM
You need to be more specific. Water treatment isn't rocket science but it is chemistry and physics.

26 PARTS of hardness ... is that 26 grains or 26 ppm or 26 mg/l ???

What about the iron and manganese?

In order to help you the softener needs to be identified. It's important to know the capacity (how much resin it has) and what control valve it has so it can be set properly.

The fact that the treated water has 1 to 1.5 something of hardness (and who knows about the iron) means the softener is not set up properly.

If you have iron content and the softener is from 1992 and you haven't been doing any routine maintainence the resin might need to be replaced. The softener is probably set for the condition of the water and the water usage in 1992.

You should get a local water treatment pro to come out to throughly test your water, identify and inspect the condition of your softener, and make recommendations to resolve your problem.