Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - DSC PC5508 2nd owner no master code

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sow sow
04-12-06, 01:32 PM
I’m the 2nd owner and the previous owner did not leave me with code nor a manual book. I did a search online and found me the manual but it doesn’t help me with the problem I’m having.

I think I have a Classic PC1555/PC5508 LED keypad with 8 zones. I have no service with security company since I moved in 2 years ago. A few weeks ago the trouble light came on and kept beeping. I pushed *2 and Zone 1 light is on indicating the front/garage door. I closed all the windows and doors, still trouble light. Last week I came home after work open the door the siren went off. With me not having a master code I couldn’t do anything to stop the siren so my b/f cut the wires. Now, I all the zone lights are blinking, armed and trouble light are on. How to disarm with no master code? How do I fix this problem? Help please.


MrRonFL
04-12-06, 04:06 PM
Ok, first, you are misinterpreting the trouble indicator display. You can get the user manual from www.DSC.com, which will give you the proper truth table for the trouble display.

(1 showing after pressing *2 means the the main system battery is low or dead)

To properly shut the panel down, go to the battery cabinet (usually located in places like the master bedroom closet), find and unplug the power transformer (generally in an outlet somewhere relatively close to the main cabinet), and unplug any 1 of the wires on the systems backup battery. This will completely shutdown the system.

Power back up, AC power first, then reconnect the battery (after repairing any wires that were cut). If it comes back up armed, then the only thing that can be done, short of a lucky guess at the master code, is to default the thing (which doesn't have a 100% success rate). Read the FAQ for this forum, and some of the other posts talking about DSC Power series panels (1555/power 632; 5010/power 832).

Just realize that if you have to go the default route, DSC panels are not very DIY friendly.

sow sow
04-13-06, 02:26 PM
Ok we did a complete shutdown and power back up. We got it to where no armed and trouble is on, now the program light is on. Does that mean it's in a programming mode and we have to setup all the zones? If so, I just downloaded the installation manual for Classic PC1555. Would this help me complete the set up and everything will be a okay?


MrRonFL
04-13-06, 04:48 PM
Whew! You lucked out. These are often setup to power back up in the same state they were in when shut down.

The program light is an indicator for a number of functions. The zone information does not have to be reprogrammed at this point. Just press # until it returns to normal run mode.

The first test:

Once in normal run mode key in:
* 8 5555
If it beeps rapidly for a few seconds and the program light comes back on, then the factory default installer code will work, and resetting your master code will be easy. Just hit # until the program light turns off, and let us know, and we can help you from there.

If not, things get a lot more complicated, because short of a lucky guess at the installer code, the only option is defaulting the panel, which will mean resetting all of the zone information, among other things.

sow sow
04-17-06, 11:19 AM
Everything is at a default mode and all 1 thru 8 light came up. What do I do next.

MrRonFL
04-17-06, 03:56 PM
First: go into program mode: * 8 5555

The zones are all showing open because the original installer didn't want to install zone resistors, so you need to turn that requirement off.

enter 013: zone lights 3, 6, & 7 should be on. Press 1, and that zone light should turn on. Press #

The default also turns the dialer back on, which you will need to disable if you will not be monitored:

Enter 015 press 7 to turn off the telephone line monitor press #

Enter 380 press 1 to turn off the communicator. press # until you go back to run mode.

All that is left after that is to reset your zone configurations. I hope you figured out which zone corresponds to what before you ran the default procedure?

sow sow
04-18-06, 08:56 PM
Now its in memory and bypass mode with zone 3 and 6 lit with trouble light on. Please walk me through step by step.

I thought this is a quick fix. Sorry that this has taken a little longer to fix. I apologize for the inconvience.

MrRonFL
04-18-06, 10:25 PM
Hoookay, first of all, exit (press # as many times as it takes) all the way back to run mode. The various lights mean different things depending on what commands have been entered, so simply describing the lights that are on tells us nothing.

Next; to help you do this, you have to tell us what zone is supposed to do what on your system. There is no universal template, security systems are essentially custom installations.

Ignore the memory light in run mode, it just means that you haven't armed the system since the last time it was put into alarm.

Let's start with a listing of what your zones are supposed to be.

DSC panels are complex, even as security systems go. Most changes involve multiple commands.

Dude Duh
04-18-06, 10:35 PM
Normally you will find the master control switch box in th attic or basement.once located open it and cut all wires.option 2 is to look inside the cover of the switch panel and call the installing company and asking them to disarm it for you.all you have to do is give them the address and they can look it up.

sow sow
04-24-06, 08:00 PM
Ok here are the listed zones:
1) Front - Garage door
2) All windows
3) Back door
4) Master windows
5) Motion

MrRonFL
04-25-06, 06:17 PM
Ok here are the listed zones:
1) Front - Garage door
2) All windows
3) Back door
4) Master windows
5) Motion

Alrighty, now we have something to work with...Assuming that everything is hardwired and not wireless...


enter program mode by entering * 8 [installer code]
go to secton 001
Enter the following codes: 01 03 03 03 05 00 00 00 (this sets zone 1 as an entry/exit delay; the windows and back door as instant alarms; and the motion detector as an interior zone that will automatically bypass if you do not open and close the entry/exit doors during the arming delay)


The only other thing left is to set a new master code which you can either do directly from section 007, or by using the keypad commands after you exit to run mode. Unless there's some other obscure feature that's causing you issues, if you don't have a ready light, you might have to figure out which opening has a missing magnet or damaged contact.

sow sow
05-01-06, 08:34 PM
Ok done....ready light is on and trouble light is on as well...trouble is indicating LOW BATTERY. Does this mean I have to let the main panel backup battery charge and trouble is restored when the battery charges over 12.5 volts (I got this from the user manuel)?

MrRonFL
05-01-06, 09:44 PM
Yes, if you reconnect the battery; if the battery is good, that trouble should clear in 24 hours or less. If it doesn't clear in a day, the battery should be replaced.

sow sow
05-11-06, 09:44 AM
I reconnected the battery and the trouble light is on, I guess the battery need to be replaced. I read on the battery that the battery should be replaced 3-5 years. The house was built in 2001. So I guess it's time to replace a new battery.

I don't know what the price range for replacing a battery. Any suggestions where I can buy the battery?

Thank you for all your help.

MrRonFL
05-11-06, 05:16 PM
These sealed lead-acid batteries are used in emergency lighting and UPS power supplies, so a well stocked homecenter will have them; as will the larger Radio Shack stores. If you have no luck there, the local battery wholesalers like Interstate often have a direct sales shop at their main warehouse. Most security and fire alarm companies will sell them over the counter as well.

Typically, these batteries run 20-30 dollars.

tonto2
05-19-06, 01:56 AM
MrRonFL your advice on this thread is really helping me out as well.
I am just installing a new 632 and am running into some problems that you have already helped clear up...THANKS.

Question..I am trying to set the Master Access code so that I can
go in and update the time/date and clear a #8 trouble.
I have enter *8-5555-007 and the panel comes up showing
1-3 what am i supposed to do from here?? (the provided manual
is not very clear at all:confused: )

Thanks
T.

tonto2
05-19-06, 02:21 AM
Just noticed that you answered this question in another thread.
worked like a charm and I think I am now good to go...
Thanks again.

sow sow
06-05-06, 05:41 PM
I bought a new battery BSL 1055 12V 5Ah PC1250 from Interstate Batteries. I connect the battery to the terminal but trouble light #1 is still on. What could be the problem? With any trouble light showing, does this prevent the alarm to work properly?

MrRonFL
06-05-06, 08:22 PM
Often, a new battery will still need several hours of charge time before the system registers that it's charged enough. As much as overnight in some cases.

Also, trouble 1 is more than just battery. Look at the table in the install/user manual:
Service Required: Press [1] to determine the specific trouble. Lights 1 - 5 will light up to indicate the trouble:
• Light [1] Low Battery: Main panel backup battery charge is low (below 11.5 volts under load).Trouble is restored
when the battery charges over 12.5 volts.
• Light [2] Bell Circuit Trouble: The bell circuit is open (see section 5.13 “Bell” on page 23).
• Light [3] General System Trouble: The printer connected to the PC5400 Printer module has a fault and is off-line.
• Light [4] General System Tamper: Tamper has been detected in a module.
• Light [5] General System Supervisory: The panel has lost communication with a module connected to the Keybus
(see section 2.6 “Supervision” on page 5). The event buffer will log the event.
NOTE: All tamper conditions must be physically restored before the trouble condition will clear.
NOTE:Lights [6-8] – Not used

sow sow
06-05-06, 08:37 PM
MrRonFL, thank you for your quick reply.

The battery have been connected to the terminal for several days now. What can I be doing wrong??

MrRonFL
06-06-06, 06:15 PM
If you connected the new battery with the proper polarity, and you are still getting a low battery indication, then you may have a real problem.

The Charger output should be at least 13vdc, and the fully charged battery should be at least 12-12.5 VDC.

When you are checking the trouble, remember *2. If you see led #1 light, press 1 to get the real trouble.

It's not impossible that you got a bad battery. The law of averages does sometimes catch up to you.

Navtej
06-07-06, 05:58 PM
There is a problem with DSC 1555 for low battery troubles. Because Sometimes if You get low battery tourble and it does not go away even if You replace the battery. There is a way to fix it because i have done that at some customer's place, but i dont remember now. Your new battery is working fine so don't worry about the trouble light.

MrRonFL
06-07-06, 06:21 PM
I think that *6 + [master code] + 4 will force a system test and force the panel to hard test the battery in the process.

jrmtl
06-23-06, 05:09 PM
Hi MrRonFL,

I was just reading the post regarding the yellow trouble light with the alarm dsc 1550 system as I am having the same issue. I switched alarm monitoring service and the tech person came to reprogram the main board and since then the trouble light has been on pointing to low battery. He replaced the battery today and the light is still on... The tech person is saying not to worry about it and to leave it as is .

I do NOT like to see it like that and would like to know if it can be fixed.

Any ideas ?
Thx

sow sow
07-27-06, 09:30 AM
MrRonFL

I did the hard test still shows low battery light. I did all that is possible by following your instructions, I guess there is nothing more I can do and just leave as it is and not to worry about it like Navtej said. Thanks for all your help MrRonFL and everyone.

kered01
12-08-07, 11:13 AM
MrRonFL,

I have a DSC 5508Z keypad with a PC1555 control panel. I have tried to power down the system but I was trying the master code of 1234. I read the thread here and I was wondering if my system works the same way?

kcxj
12-08-07, 11:41 AM
Did you ever reconnect the wires to the siren????

MrRonFL
12-08-07, 09:04 PM
Yes, you have the same system as the original poster of this thread. The default master code for these is 1234, and the default installer code is 5555, but it's a near guarentee that these will be changed.

kered01
12-14-07, 12:37 PM
Actually there is another master installer code. I found a local guy who gave me a installer code for systems installed by private companies. I will have to look up that code because I dont have it in front of me, but there is another code other than 1234 or 5555. I also have another question. I want to hook up an external siren. the output of the bell connection is 700mA. I have an inside bell also. The new siren that I have is 15 watts at 12V. Where in the panel can I hook this up so that I have a siren inside the house and one outside?

MrRonFL
12-14-07, 05:33 PM
There are _numerous_ installer codes. Nearly all installation companies have their own. The codes I listed are the factory default codes for a non-modified system, and are the codes that the system will revert to if defaulted (assuming that the installer lockout feature is not active)

Common codes used by businesses include: the last 4 digits of one of their phone numbers, the business street address, the last 4 digits of the business license, the street address of the installed system. Common ones used by mass market installers include: 6321, 3800, 0852, 9713,

kered01
12-14-07, 10:58 PM
Yeah thats it. 6321 that is the one I used. I see what you mean now, the installer code is specific to who installs it.
What about the siren?? Can I piggyback the sirens or do I need to use another port? The siren I have is 15 watts at 12 volts. The panel has a 700mA max output.

MrRonFL
12-14-07, 11:18 PM
You are quoting ratings in watts, look carefully, is this a _speaker_? If so, you have to have a siren driver to run it. _Sirens_ have built in drivers. The panel you are dealing with puts out 12vdc in alarm, if you connect a _speaker_ to that, you will simply destroy the speaker coil (at worst case).

kered01
12-15-07, 10:52 AM
No this is an alarm siren, two tone, 12V input, 10 watt output, 115db two tone. Philmore brand model SH12. I have the siren hooked up now and it works but I am not sure where to hook it up for good. right now I have it hooked up in parallel with the existing siren. I just want to make sure that the bell output on the pc1555 board will hold 2 sirens or if I need to hook it up elsewhere.

MrRonFL
12-15-07, 11:06 PM
Somewhere on both sirens, will be a current draw listing (or back calculate it: Watts divided by voltage = current): For this device, at 12 volts it draws .833 amps. The specs according to the installer manual says it will support .7 amps continuous, and 3 amps for a short time.

devildawg
02-26-08, 12:05 PM
There is only one bell output on the DSC 1555 panel. Sirens work fine in parallel as long as you do not exceed the current rating for the panel. You should have no problem as the panel will typically handle several extra devices.

Note: DSC panels do not have siren drivers so speakers don't work.