Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - New Red Pine floors in Log Cabin

I know I know...I have read 10 pages of these forums gone to NOFMA etc and I still have some questions.

1) 8" wide 3/4" tounge and groove red pine flooring...is it absolutly necessary to face nail as well as blind nail on the installation? Going over 16" joists with 3/4" TG plywood.

2) Drum sander....what grit spread should I use...again new install, unfinished red pine...do I angle on the first pass?

3) Finishing...Poly...what is the fastest way to sand between poly coats? I'm doing about 1000 SF.

Any other tips? Pre conditioner? Poly recommendations? Time between sanding and staining?

This is a log cabin...obviously I want it nice, but perfect is not necessary for the whole "character" thing.

Thanks for all your time.

My neighbor did an orbital sander on his new floor....looks good but still wondering if I should do a belt sander. I'm looking for speed first. I'm not afraid of the belt sander, I have done everything else in the cabin and will practice will the belt sander. Any advice would really be appreciated. Thanks

1) 8" wide 3/4" tounge and groove red pine flooring...is it absolutly necessary to face nail as well as blind nail on the installation? Going over 16" joists with 3/4" TG plywood.

You could glue and blind nail, to keep from face nailing, or screws and plugs




2) Drum sander....what grit spread should I use...again new install, unfinished red pine...do I angle on the first pass?

Pine is softwood, not hardwood. I'd start with 60 and see if it cuts smooth. Angle if ther is a whole bunch of overwood.




3) Finishing...Poly...what is the fastest way to sand between poly coats? I'm doing about 1000 SF.

Buffer with a 320 maroon pad, or fine steel wool if oil is used.

Thanks for the reply...I think I like the glue idea....so would I use a notched trowl? What type of glue?

PL urethane adhesive, in a caulking gun. A wave pattern all the way down the plank, or a 2 straight beads down each length side.

On a log home I built, I was able to acquire 2x8 tongue and groove heart pine from a place that recycled railroad box car flooring. Of course this was my subflooring and flooring due to the thickness. We had to drill and drive every nail. It had holes in it where the brackets were for attaching it to the steel in the box car. I over drilled the holes and glued in dowels so it looked like it was pegged together. To the point...I used a polyurethane specifically formulated for use on basketball courts. It was a two part compound and when it hardened, it had a great finish to it.

Looks like I will be toe nailing, gluing and drum sanding with 3 different grits and polishing/sanding with a rotary buffer and steel wool.

Thanks for the help