Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Trying to install HE360A humidifier

I have an Aprilaire unit currently with a bypass, which is refusing to bring the humidity up this year... Anyway I saw the Honeywell in Home Depot and purchased it.

1. I see that the HE360 does not need a bypass, but how do I know which side is the return and which is the hot air? Through the main opening of the Aprilaire I can see some coils (A/C maybe)...

2. It is missing the template which is supposed to help me cut the hole. I'm thinking of measuring the the back of the HE360 and cut a rectangular hole... Will that do it, or the hole has a special shape?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Your supply duct is above the furnace, (the hot duct)..


Air goes down the duct work down to the side into the blower and up on top.

You can use the back of the unit as a temp plate, and use with care cutting the duct. don't want to cut the return.

Thanks, Jay11J!

Now I have the humidifier in place, and the round hole of the old bypass is sealed. I just need to connect it.

There is existing wiring in place for the Aprilaire:
I have 2 thin cables with 2 wires white and red each where the humidistat is. White is connected to white and the 2 reds go to the old humidistat.
For the humidifier there is a single cable with 1 white and 1 red coming in.

Can I assume that the HE360 would work with these wires (they are same in number), or should I trace them and see how the are connected?

And one last question, what is the voltage on these wires if any, and can I do damage by wiring incorrectly?

Thanks again!
--nick

These are going to be wired up diffrently than the by pass. By pass used the 24 volt from the furnace, where the new one has it's own transfromer, so I would suggest you look at the install manual very close, and pretty much "start over".

If you stayed with the bypass, then you could of hooked the same wires.

It's 24 volts, you won't get hurt touching it, but if you short it out, it can burn out the transfromer, or furnace control board.

So, again, start over and look at the install manual very close and wire as it shows there. and make sure the furnace power is turned off!

Jay thanks again for your help! Everything is in place now and working happily:thumbup: BTW, the old bypass humidifier had it's own transformer and a pump, so the wiring turned out to be the same.

Now I have a bigger problem:
I decided to change the old bypass humidifier, because it wasn't able to raise the humidity level, that is after changing the pad and cleaning everything... After installing the HE360 I was expecting a big difference, but no - same thing :wall: The thermostat in the dining room is showing 20% and I've seen it go to 35% before.

What else could be the problem? The furnace is 100K BTU, the house is 2000sq ft., ranch...

Thanks!
--nick

What water line did you hook up? (hot or cold?)

Furnace run time avg in an hour? or how many cycles per hour?

Older or newer home?

I also bought a Honeywell HE360A from Home Depot, as well as the optional installation kit (includes sail switch, tubing, and installation video). In both the installation manual and the installation video, a Honeywell supplied mounting template is used for determining and marking the mounting location. Niether my HE360A nor my installation kit included this template.

I called Honeywell to find out how I could obtain the template, and after a long hold time they informed me that it is no longer included with the HE360A product. They were able to provide me with the description and dimensions of the hole that needs to be cut - which I will provide here for future installers.

It's a simple retangular hole measuring 14 1/16 " wide by 13 1/2 " high. That'll be 357 mm wide and 343 mm high for you metric users. Of course, measure the back of your HE360A before hand to ensure that these are still the correct dimensions (in case of model revision).

I'm told that the remaining instructions in the manual and on the video are correct and can be followed verbatim.



hth, and good luck!

JJM in KC