Water Heaters - 3800 Watt vs. 5500 Watt Electric Water Heater Option

My new Kenmore 66 gallon water heater has an opion to convert the lower heating element to 5500 watt vs. the default 3800 watt setting... is there any advantage to doing this and if so what is it? I'd like to run the unit in the most cost effective manner and have opted to leave it set as it was when I purchased it until I learn why I'd convert to the higher wattage option.

Can anybody clarify the pro's and con's of doing such a conversion?

Thanks!!!!!!!!

The higher wattage element will have a faster recovery rate. A 5500 watt element will raise the temperature of 25 gallons of water 90 degrees in one hour versus 17 gallons for the 3800 watt element. The 5500 watt element will require more current to operate (about 23 amps versus about 16 amps for the 3800 watt element). The 3800 watt element will operate on a 20 amp fuse or breaker. The 5500 watt element would require a 30 amp fuse or breaker. The actual amount of energy used to heat the water would be the same in kilowatt hours so the cost of operation should not be affected much either way. The 5500 watt element would just do the job quicker. The wire gauge and fuse/breaker size would have to be evaluated if you decide to change it. If you are not running out of hot water or need quicker recovery between uses, I would not bother changing it.

The higher wattage element will have a faster recovery rate. A 5500 watt element will raise the temperature of 25 gallons of water 90 degrees in one hour versus 17 gallons for the 3800 watt element. The 5500 watt element will require more current to operate (about 23 amps versus about 16 amps for the 3800 watt element). The 3800 watt element will operate on a 20 amp fuse or breaker. The 5500 watt element would require a 30 amp fuse or breaker. The actual amount of energy used to heat the water would be the same in kilowatt hours so the cost of operation should not be affected much either way. The 5500 watt element would just do the job quicker. The wire gauge and fuse/breaker size would have to be evaluated if you decide to change it. If you are not running out of hot water or need quicker recovery between uses, I would not bother changing it.
Thank you.. that is exactly the information I needed... it looks like I have perhaps 8 gauge wire and I do have a 30 amp breaker, but seeing as I don't ever exceed the 66 gallon capacity I won't worry about recovery time at this point.. but it is good to know should conditions ever change!

Thanks again!

Just as an aside. A new WH I bought a few years ago was much like yours only in the 50gallon 'low boy' version.
It ran one element if demand was low, and would run both elements if demand was high.
It would actually heat the water fast enough in the summer than you could take a neverending shower and the water still be comfortably warm.

Do it, you won't use anymore power than otherwise, and the chances of you running out of hot water are a lot lower..

thanks, for the help guys. I took the pipe loose above the valve and the valve and pipe were clear. The problem ended up being trash in the facet itself. everything is back to normal. thanks!

Question one: What brand makes the type that only uses one element unless demand is high, then uses both?

Question two: Will 10 gauge 30 amp work for the Richmond dual 5500 watt heaters?

Question three: Are the 12 year Richmond dual 5500 stainless steel elements the right choice?

Question four: What happens when the self-cleaning system breaks down? Does the water heater continue as normal?

Thanks!