Painting - Painting Kitchen Cabinets
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heather2634
03-05-06, 10:04 AM
I am in the process of refinishing my kitchen cabinets. I took the doors off as well as all the hardware. I sanded the entire surface and scrubbed them with TSP. The inside was painted with an oilbase high gloss paint, the doors and moulding are varnished mohagany. I have given them one coat of high adhesive interior/exterior, water clean-up primer sealant. It looks streaky, but did cover well. Started with a foam brush which didn't seem to be doing that great a job so switched to a brush. Being that it seems streaky, I am wondering if it would benefit the job by doing a second coat of primer. I am going to give the entire cabinets 2 coats of paint. I am using eggshell interior latex in a light taupe color. My question is "Should I do a second coat of primer or will I start now with my first coat of paint?"
Wannabe-A-Pro
03-05-06, 10:33 AM
The streaking may be caused by stain bleeding through the primer. If so, you may need to use an alkyd primer/sealer. The pros here will advise you.
Yesterday, I started painting a set of oak cabinets (stained dark walnut). I used a waterborne binding primer thinking it was also a sealer. Well, it's not a sealer. I soon noticed streaking, caused by the dark walnut stain bleeding through the primer. I stopped painting immediately after seeing the streaking. I'm going to switch to an alkyd primer/sealer.
For your top coat you may want to consider using a quality waterborne latex enamel (e.g. Sherwin-Williams Proclassic, or a comparable product).
Yesterday, I started painting a set of oak cabinets (stained dark walnut). I used a waterborne binding primer thinking it was also a sealer. Well, it's not a sealer. I soon noticed streaking, caused by the dark walnut stain bleeding through the primer. I stopped painting immediately after seeing the streaking. I'm going to switch to an alkyd primer/sealer.
For your top coat you may want to consider using a quality waterborne latex enamel (e.g. Sherwin-Williams Proclassic, or a comparable product).
marksr
03-05-06, 10:47 AM
I doubt you have any stains bleeding through the primer as it is sealed with varnish. I do question your use of a latex primer - I hope it bonds well. If it has had a day or two to dry you might sand or scratch the primer and make sure it adheres to the varnish. IMO you should always used a solvent based primer when painting over top of varnish/poly.
As long as the primer has bonded to the surface there is no need for an additional coat of primer. The primers job is to give the finish coat a good surface to bond to. Most of the brush marks you see are caused by incomplete coverage of the mahagony. The finish coats of paint will take care of this. Be sure to sand lightly between coats - this will help to minimize any brush marks.
As long as the primer has bonded to the surface there is no need for an additional coat of primer. The primers job is to give the finish coat a good surface to bond to. Most of the brush marks you see are caused by incomplete coverage of the mahagony. The finish coats of paint will take care of this. Be sure to sand lightly between coats - this will help to minimize any brush marks.
Wannabe-A-Pro
03-05-06, 11:10 AM
In my case, the varnish on the cabinets was worn off and flaking in places. I did some sanding to remove flaking varnish. So, I guess he seal was gone. In any case, I'm going with alkyd primer to be safe.
slickshift
03-05-06, 11:43 AM
You really should use a solvent-based primer for this type of project
I'm not surprised you had problems
I'll be surprised if it stays up there
Definately test if before continuing
Make sure it won't peel/flake/slide off with some handling
That being said, if the latex primer is holding, well then, carry on I guess
I'm not surprised you had problems
I'll be surprised if it stays up there
Definately test if before continuing
Make sure it won't peel/flake/slide off with some handling
That being said, if the latex primer is holding, well then, carry on I guess