Draperies and Top Treatments - arched window sheers
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : arched window sheers
sewdrapes
03-01-06, 05:50 PM
I am sewing sheer panels for an arched window in the bathroom. I am not quite sure how to cut the fabric with the arch. I have an arched window flexible rod to put it on! Can someone give me some instruction. I've sewed alot of regular panels, but never this.
Shadeladie
03-02-06, 06:20 AM
It depends on what you're making. Will it be a rodpocket panel, pleated panels, or a sunburst?
sewdrapes
03-02-06, 07:02 PM
I am doing a rod pocket. I am just not sure how to cut the top. Do I cut it straight put the hem in then cut the arch out at the top?
Shadeladie
03-03-06, 09:29 AM
OK, you'll need to make a template of the arch, first, which you can do by taping some sort of paper over your arch using painter's tape, and trace the arch on the paper and straight across the bottom, right under the arch. There are two ways to do this, so I'll give the easiest way. You'll need a straight rod that's the finished width of the rod you're going to use. Any old, cheap rod will do. Cut your fabric several inches longer than the cut length needs to be, then sew in a temporary pocket at the top (make sure the fabric's cut straight at the top and bottom then just fold the top over once). Then shir the fabric on the rod, making sure the gathers are all evenly distributed. I don't know what you're using to make these on, but you'll need to either pin down well, top and bottom or clamp it, or do something to keep the fabric from moving or pulling. Then take your template and place it near the top (where the finished length plus hem allowance plus takeup will be) and make sure it's straight, by measuring top to bottom, along the width. Make several marks all along the template, at the top. Now take the rod out, open up the fabric, and connect the dots to make your arch. Then add 1/2" seam allowance to the top and cut along that line. Now you'll need to make a facing strip, which you'll make the same way, using your template. It will be in a curved shape, so you'll need to make it the length of the pocket size you need, plus 1" (1/2" sa top and bottom), then sew 1/2" from the bottom, turn up at the stitch line, then topstitch 1/4" from the bottom, for the finished edge. Now put right sides together (fabric and facing) and stitch 1/2" from the top, trim the seam allowance neatly, or serge, then flip the facing to the back, and topstitch near the bottom of the facing. Oh, you'll need to sew in your side hems first, before you flip the facing, and make sure you allow for the side hems when tracing your template. Hope this is clear as mud! Easier to show than explain.
sewdrapes
03-03-06, 07:03 PM
I see exactly what you are saying. I just don't get the facing part. Why does a facing have to be done. Can't you just flip the top to make a rod pocket. Maybe I am just not seeing that part. Otherwise it actually is clear as mud. Thanks a bunch :)
Shadeladie
03-03-06, 07:37 PM
It's actually easier to make the facing, and it'll look neater, too. You could just turn the top over, but it doesn't lay flat, the way you'd think it would, rather you get a lot of excess at the edge, and you'd have to make folds and baste, or make darts, and it would probably look bunchy thru the sheers. If you have a little scrap of fabric, just a 12 x 12, just cut an arch around it, then fold it to the back, and you'll see what I mean.
Glad you understood everything :)
Glad you understood everything :)
shinealot
06-04-07, 04:06 PM
I was doing a search for directions for making an arched rod pocket valance, and I found your explanation here. You mentioned that there were two ways to do it; do you mind giving me directions for the second way?
Also, I'm trying to make this as a stationary cloud shade type valance. Any insight into that?
Your tips are great. Thanks a lot!
Also, I'm trying to make this as a stationary cloud shade type valance. Any insight into that?
Your tips are great. Thanks a lot!
Shadeladie
06-04-07, 05:47 PM
Hi Shinealot and thanks! The second way would be the way you have to make a pleated arch panel by making your template and cutting it into strips, then spreading them apart to your desired fullness, then joining the lines to make the entire arch. To make pleats, you'd join the lines with a stair step effect and to join for a rodpocket you'd make curves.
Again, there's two ways to make an arched cloud. The easy way where you don't even have to make the arched top and the harder way, where you do. Please let me know which method you prefer.
Again, there's two ways to make an arched cloud. The easy way where you don't even have to make the arched top and the harder way, where you do. Please let me know which method you prefer.
shinealot
06-04-07, 10:58 PM
Do you mind telling me about both methods for the arched cloud? I don't mind cutting the curve in the top if that turns out better, but I'm curious about the easier way, too. Do you cut a curve in the bottom for it?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Shadeladie
06-05-07, 09:05 AM
OK, the easy method first. First, of course, you’ll need a flexible rod or plastic or similar to fit the arch. There’s other options if you don’t have or want a rod.
Measure from the top of the rod to the finished length you want, then add for the casing, header (if you want one), a double hem (if it’s a sheer, then a double 1”) plus permanent poufs (depending on how long it’ll be, I’d probably add at least 24” to get nice poufs) and a few extra inches, just in case. This will be your cut length. Your width will be 2 ½ to 3 x fullness (the width of the rod). Now you’ll have a rectangle. First, sew in double 1” side hems. Next sew your casing, which will need to be a bit snug so it won’t be sliding off the rod. Now hang your valance on the rod and adjust the gathers neatly, then let it hang overnight, then steam it and play with it, till it looks nice and neat gathers, then mark your hem line straight across above the two tail things hanging on each side, then cut them off.
Now sew your double 1” hem, then mark your ring placement on the side hems. Try to lay this out in a large area where you can lay your bottom hem along a straight edge and at least one side hem along another straight edge to make your ring marking easier. You’ll probably want your horizontal ring placement to be 6” apart, starting from the top of the hem and space them apart evenly across the shade (figure how many vertical rows you'll need since they'll be spaced further apart on account of the fullness). Since it’s a valance, you can either buy split rings to tie the permanent pouf rings together or if you can’t find them, use the small, clear cable ties (you can get at Home Depot or Lowes). You’ll probably also need to add a weight rod at the bottom (you can use a wooden dowel for a valance) to keep the sides from pulling in. Make a tubing out of the sheer fabric to cover the rod, then just tack it on below the bottom rings at either end and the center.
I'll post directions for the other method later in the day.
Measure from the top of the rod to the finished length you want, then add for the casing, header (if you want one), a double hem (if it’s a sheer, then a double 1”) plus permanent poufs (depending on how long it’ll be, I’d probably add at least 24” to get nice poufs) and a few extra inches, just in case. This will be your cut length. Your width will be 2 ½ to 3 x fullness (the width of the rod). Now you’ll have a rectangle. First, sew in double 1” side hems. Next sew your casing, which will need to be a bit snug so it won’t be sliding off the rod. Now hang your valance on the rod and adjust the gathers neatly, then let it hang overnight, then steam it and play with it, till it looks nice and neat gathers, then mark your hem line straight across above the two tail things hanging on each side, then cut them off.
Now sew your double 1” hem, then mark your ring placement on the side hems. Try to lay this out in a large area where you can lay your bottom hem along a straight edge and at least one side hem along another straight edge to make your ring marking easier. You’ll probably want your horizontal ring placement to be 6” apart, starting from the top of the hem and space them apart evenly across the shade (figure how many vertical rows you'll need since they'll be spaced further apart on account of the fullness). Since it’s a valance, you can either buy split rings to tie the permanent pouf rings together or if you can’t find them, use the small, clear cable ties (you can get at Home Depot or Lowes). You’ll probably also need to add a weight rod at the bottom (you can use a wooden dowel for a valance) to keep the sides from pulling in. Make a tubing out of the sheer fabric to cover the rod, then just tack it on below the bottom rings at either end and the center.
I'll post directions for the other method later in the day.
Shadeladie
06-05-07, 03:21 PM
Oh, I forgot to mention, the easy way only works with a solid or plain fabric. Prints or designs would be distorted and need to be made using the shaped method.
Making a curved top shade. Your cut length will be the same as the other plus add a seam allowance to the top. Make a template of your arch and then cut in half, lengthwise. Draw evenly spaced lines across the pattern (top to bottom) and cut into strips (at least 4 or more depending on arch size). You can cut out your fabric, sew your double 1” side hems, fold in half, and pin the strips onto the fabric, making sure to keep the arch top in the correct place from the top (you can use the other half to check this), then redraw your line adding a seam allowance to the top. You can also do this on pattern paper and make the pattern, then pin this to the fabric.
Now you’ll need to make a casing which will be as wide as the top of the shade plus 2” and the length will be the size of the pocket plus the heading, if you have one, plus seam allowances, then this will be doubled, folded in half wrong sides together, then pinned on the top right side of the shade and stitched together, then pressed upward to create your casing (and press the seam upward and make sure it’s behind the rod to hide it). If you don’t have a header, you can make a facing cut to the shape of the top as described above. Whichever way works best for you. Mark and sew your rings and tie up the same as the other way and add a weight bar and you’re done.
Making a curved top shade. Your cut length will be the same as the other plus add a seam allowance to the top. Make a template of your arch and then cut in half, lengthwise. Draw evenly spaced lines across the pattern (top to bottom) and cut into strips (at least 4 or more depending on arch size). You can cut out your fabric, sew your double 1” side hems, fold in half, and pin the strips onto the fabric, making sure to keep the arch top in the correct place from the top (you can use the other half to check this), then redraw your line adding a seam allowance to the top. You can also do this on pattern paper and make the pattern, then pin this to the fabric.
Now you’ll need to make a casing which will be as wide as the top of the shade plus 2” and the length will be the size of the pocket plus the heading, if you have one, plus seam allowances, then this will be doubled, folded in half wrong sides together, then pinned on the top right side of the shade and stitched together, then pressed upward to create your casing (and press the seam upward and make sure it’s behind the rod to hide it). If you don’t have a header, you can make a facing cut to the shape of the top as described above. Whichever way works best for you. Mark and sew your rings and tie up the same as the other way and add a weight bar and you’re done.
shinealot
06-06-07, 01:31 PM
Thanks for all your help! I feel a lot more confident about starting this project now.
shinealot
06-19-07, 02:38 PM
Shadeladie, I finished the rod pocket valance on the arched window and it looks great! It is in a new baby's bedroom and is very cute. Thanks for all your help!
Shadeladie
06-19-07, 06:01 PM
Terrific! :D So glad to hear they came out great and I knew they would. :)