Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Refinish Hartco prefinish floor ?

I have a prefinished Hartco wood floor in our kitchen and want to sand and refinish it with a polyurethane. I am looking for tips on sanding and what poly will give us the most durable finish. The floor is laid on a 45* angle to the walls. It is for the most part a high traffic area in our home. There is a small area at the back door and sink with water damage which will be replaced and I am hoping a complete Polyurethane refinish will stop this from happening again.
Rain and snow at the back door and water from dishwashing etc. at the sink.

Are there any moisture issues with sealing a floor of this type? I don't want it to buckle on me!

Thanks for any insight you may be able to offer.

Jay

There are many good websites that get into detail about the different types of grits of sandpaper that must be used and the recommended types of sanders, finishes, etc. You can type 'finishing wood floors' into your favorite search engine.

Refinishing wood floors will not resolve moisture issues and damage unless you resolve those first. For instance, if moisture is leaking in under door threshold or if moisture is a result of moisture being tracked indoors, these issues must be addressed. Threshold can be sealed. Gutter above door may need to be cleared and downspout unclogged. Insulation, ventilation, and ice dam issues may need to be addressed to keep snow and ice from dumping at door threshold. Canopy or overhang may need to be installed as well.

Mats need to be used inside and outside door to collect moisture from wet and snowy boots. Polyurethane finish is a surface finish intended to protect wood, but not intended to resolve moisture issues. Moisture can still enter between boards. Better management of water issues at the sink and a rug to collect water splatters and wear at sink are important. Runners in hallways and rugs in other high traffic areas also offer protection to wood finish.

If moisture issues are your major concern, and they sound like they are mostly due to exterior issues and at the kitchen sink, those can be easily corrected. Other moisture issues may involve placing protective covering over floor beneath potted plants, wiping up all human and pet accidents immediately.

If buckling of wood floors is a concern, you should also make sure that you maintain temperature and humidity year round at occupancy levels. Temperature around 65-70 and humidity at arount 35-55%. This means you must have a thermometer and a hygrometer. Levels tend to vary among the different rooms of a home. If your wood flooring is installed over a crawl space, it should be dry, well-ventilated, and a vapor retarder installed over the soil. Wood tends to expand and contract as temps and humidity levels fluctuate. If you monitor temperature and humidity year round and wood was properly acclimated, proper expansion gap allowed, vapor retarders installed, etc., then you should be fine. But, your issues are the back door and kitchen sink. Unless, you address those sources of moisture, no finish will resolve your issues.

if moisture is leaking in under door threshold or if moisture is a result of moisture being tracked indoors, these issues must be addressed. Mats need to be used inside and outside door to collect moisture from wet and snowy boots. Polyurethane finish is a surface finish intended to protect wood, but not intended to resolve moisture issues. Moisture can still enter between boards. Better management of water issues at the sink and a rug to collect water splatters and wear at sink are important.


Water damage at the back door is from years of tracking in snow and rain, there are no issues with leaking threshold. Even with rubber backed carpet in place we can never seem to keep it completely on the carpet, we do have boot trays for after footwear is removed to contain melt off. Same with the sink area, just from splashing etc.

With the prefinish flooring the the water seeps between the planks and has caused problems even though there is a rubber backed carpet there, again not caused by leaks.

I figure a complete refinish with poly will stop the water from gaining entry between the planks.

The finish that is on the floor still remains in very nice condition after 10 years. A light sanding or screening and then a 3 coat polyurethane should solve these issues don't you think ? I would like to use a good commercial grade poly, do you have any brand reccomendations? Using a 2 part system would not be a problem either if they are better and available.

Jay

Wood expands and contracts as temperature and humidity levels fluctuate inside the home. Surface finish will not prevent moisture from getting between boards. Perhaps a larger rubber-backed rug at the entry would resolve moisture issues.