Water Heaters - New Hot Water Heater Problem
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : New Hot Water Heater Problem
Philossifer
02-23-06, 05:06 AM
It seems like the new hot water tank I just installed has much less capacity than my old tank. The old 40 gallan tank developed a leak so I replaced it with a new, 40 gallon Whirlpool "Flame Lock" unit; but it seems to run out of hot water much quicker than the old tank.
It was a straightforward install, nothing tricky. The only thing different is that I used stainless steel braided hoses to connect the water supply inlet and outlet.
I don't even know where to start looking for a problem. The water starts out scalding hot but by the time my shower is over, I will have had to turn down the cold spigot down a few times to maintain a comfortable level of warm water. I'm not talking about a long shower either!
Something isn't right or the tank is just a piece of junk!
(BTW, I have the tank thermostat set one notch from the hotest setting)
Any help would be appreciated.....
Thanks,
Phil
It was a straightforward install, nothing tricky. The only thing different is that I used stainless steel braided hoses to connect the water supply inlet and outlet.
I don't even know where to start looking for a problem. The water starts out scalding hot but by the time my shower is over, I will have had to turn down the cold spigot down a few times to maintain a comfortable level of warm water. I'm not talking about a long shower either!
Something isn't right or the tank is just a piece of junk!
(BTW, I have the tank thermostat set one notch from the hotest setting)
Any help would be appreciated.....
Thanks,
Phil
mdtaylor
02-23-06, 03:21 PM
Are you sure you got the supply on the inlet and not reversed?
Philossifer
02-23-06, 07:18 PM
Are you sure you got the supply on the inlet and not reversed?
mdtaylor,
I just went into the basement and checked even though I'm sure I got it right when I installed the tank.
The inlet is labeled "C" and the outlet is labeled "H" Right???
But, after reading some of the archives, I'm starting to think there is a problem right at the shower. The house was built in the early 70's and, other than the shower head, it has all the original plumbing. I think the shower plumbing is made by “American Standard”
About a year ago, I replaced the guts (don't know the proper terminology) to the hot and cold shower spigots as well as the center spigot that diverts water to the shower head. For some reason I was never able to get the full flow of water to divert to the shower head.....there's always a dribble flowing from the faucet when the shower head is on. Also, the hot water spigot has already worn out the rubber washer even though I installed new seats in both the hot and cold sides. It's not leaking but must be completely bottomed out and needs to be tightly closed for it not to leak.
I’m thinking it’s time to upgrade the shower plumbing…….Could this be my problem and Is there a sure-fire way to isolate the problem to the shower plumbing?
Thanks,
Phil
mdtaylor,
I just went into the basement and checked even though I'm sure I got it right when I installed the tank.
The inlet is labeled "C" and the outlet is labeled "H" Right???
But, after reading some of the archives, I'm starting to think there is a problem right at the shower. The house was built in the early 70's and, other than the shower head, it has all the original plumbing. I think the shower plumbing is made by “American Standard”
About a year ago, I replaced the guts (don't know the proper terminology) to the hot and cold shower spigots as well as the center spigot that diverts water to the shower head. For some reason I was never able to get the full flow of water to divert to the shower head.....there's always a dribble flowing from the faucet when the shower head is on. Also, the hot water spigot has already worn out the rubber washer even though I installed new seats in both the hot and cold sides. It's not leaking but must be completely bottomed out and needs to be tightly closed for it not to leak.
I’m thinking it’s time to upgrade the shower plumbing…….Could this be my problem and Is there a sure-fire way to isolate the problem to the shower plumbing?
Thanks,
Phil
mdtaylor
02-24-06, 05:03 AM
The old tank worked better with the same shower plumbing, right? Then I would not expect that to cause the symptoms you describe unless you made those changes at the same time you replaced the hot water heater.. So, I was looking for something unusualy wrong. What you describe is indicative of an electric heater with the bottom element burned out, not a gas heater.
Makes me think the only thing left that would cause your symptoms is poor ventilation. Repairing the shower fixtures would not hurt but I don't think you will see a marked improvement.
If you take the vent off the top and look down inside the hot water heater do you see a series of baffles inside the heater from the bottom all the way to the top or is it fully open?
Makes me think the only thing left that would cause your symptoms is poor ventilation. Repairing the shower fixtures would not hurt but I don't think you will see a marked improvement.
If you take the vent off the top and look down inside the hot water heater do you see a series of baffles inside the heater from the bottom all the way to the top or is it fully open?
Baldwin
02-24-06, 09:35 AM
Sounds to me like the dip tube wasn't installed or fell in. Did you check that?
Philossifer
02-24-06, 09:52 AM
Makes me think the only thing left that would cause your symptoms is poor ventilation. Repairing the shower fixtures would not hurt but I don't think you will see a marked improvement.
If you take the vent off the top and look down inside the hot water heater do you see a series of baffles inside the heater from the bottom all the way to the top or is it fully open?
mdtaylor,
I checked the baffles during the installation (actually there's only one baffle) and yes, it's there. No, I didn’t change any plumbing at the shower; it’s the same as it was with the old tank……
Also, I've checked the draft using a match while the burners are on and there's plenty of draft. As a matter of fact, because I installed a new condensing furnace last year, the new tank is vented through a chimney liner all by itself; as was the old tank. One thing I’ve noticed though, the new tank is really loud when the burners are firing. You can really hear the “Whooshing” sound of the flame on the burner. I just figured that was normal because of the “Flame Lock” system. Everything is sealed up real tight and all the combustion air comes in from underneath the tank. They provide a filter that wraps around the bottom of the tank to keep dirt out of the combustion area. Since it’s new the filter is still clean.
One other thing.....I don't think there is a lack of combustion air because it's an older house (1970's) and they didn't make houses real tight back then.
I don't know; I'm really starting to lean towards the fact this Whirlpool heater might be a piece of junk. I only paid $269 for it at Lowes!
Phil
If you take the vent off the top and look down inside the hot water heater do you see a series of baffles inside the heater from the bottom all the way to the top or is it fully open?
mdtaylor,
I checked the baffles during the installation (actually there's only one baffle) and yes, it's there. No, I didn’t change any plumbing at the shower; it’s the same as it was with the old tank……
Also, I've checked the draft using a match while the burners are on and there's plenty of draft. As a matter of fact, because I installed a new condensing furnace last year, the new tank is vented through a chimney liner all by itself; as was the old tank. One thing I’ve noticed though, the new tank is really loud when the burners are firing. You can really hear the “Whooshing” sound of the flame on the burner. I just figured that was normal because of the “Flame Lock” system. Everything is sealed up real tight and all the combustion air comes in from underneath the tank. They provide a filter that wraps around the bottom of the tank to keep dirt out of the combustion area. Since it’s new the filter is still clean.
One other thing.....I don't think there is a lack of combustion air because it's an older house (1970's) and they didn't make houses real tight back then.
I don't know; I'm really starting to lean towards the fact this Whirlpool heater might be a piece of junk. I only paid $269 for it at Lowes!
Phil
Philossifer
02-24-06, 09:57 AM
Sounds to me like the dip tube wasn't installed or fell in. Did you check that?
Baldwin,
No, I didn't check the dip tube......I figured on a new tank, the dip tube shouldn't be a problem.
I guess I could easily check it. When I installed the tank, I used braided stainless inlet and outlet tubing and installed a new ball valve on the inlet as well as added one on the outlet side.
What about "heat traps?" I didn't use them; are they worth the money and hassle to install them?
Phil
Baldwin,
No, I didn't check the dip tube......I figured on a new tank, the dip tube shouldn't be a problem.
I guess I could easily check it. When I installed the tank, I used braided stainless inlet and outlet tubing and installed a new ball valve on the inlet as well as added one on the outlet side.
What about "heat traps?" I didn't use them; are they worth the money and hassle to install them?
Phil
Baldwin
02-24-06, 05:24 PM
Mine came with dielectric nipples with heat trap flappers in them, don't know if they help or not.
I don't know if a valve on the outlet side is a good idea. If you have both closed and the heater comes on you could have a bomb there, that is if the T&P valve doesn't open when the pressure builds up. That's just me, I tend to look at the dark side.
Baldwin
I don't know if a valve on the outlet side is a good idea. If you have both closed and the heater comes on you could have a bomb there, that is if the T&P valve doesn't open when the pressure builds up. That's just me, I tend to look at the dark side.
Baldwin