Residential & Commercial Security - Locks, Keys & Dead Bolts - Removing a Mortise Lock

I'm having difficulty removing a mortise lock from a door. I am able to shimmy it out partway, but it then gets stuck and won't budge. The mortise box has shifted and the edges are no longer tightly secured, so I'm guessing that the screw that holds the mortise box together has worked its way out a bit and is binding on the wood. Any suggestions for coaxing it out without destroying the wood around it?

Hi Jodella,

I'll make this as simple as I can. (It's not hard).
I'm having difficulty removing a mortise lock from a door. I am able to shimmy it out partway, but it then gets stuck and won't budge. The mortise box has shifted and the edges are no longer tightly secured, so I'm guessing that the screw that holds the mortise box together has worked its way out a bit and is binding on the wood.

The screws that hold the mounting plates to the lock box are right behind the mounting plates, so it's not those. The body of the lock will have several screws on the side of the body. These could have worked loose, but I don't suspect that. What I think is most likely your trouble is that some of the internal parts have shifted, and something is sticking out of the lock. This can be carefully worked out of the door with steady pressure. Don't try and wiggle it from inside to outside though. This could cause the wood in the door to splinter. Try and rock it more in an up down motion. Even if it comes little by little, progress is progress.

Secondly, and this I need more information on. Is this a single point lock? By this I mean, does it somply latch to the frame? Another door? Or does this also latch into the Header and floor? This is called a 3 point locking system, and it latches in 3 different places. It is possible to loosen the body of the lock from the door, and still be connected to the upper and lower rods. And yes, they would prevent you from simply pulling the lock out of the door. Let us know which type you are dealing with, and we'll go from there.

cuedude

Any suggestions for coaxing it out without destroying the wood around it?

It is a single point lock. The piece that the spindle goes through is loose (sorry, don't know the correct terminology), and the lock box itself is slightly open, which is what led me to believe the screw(s) on the side of the lock holding it together have been compromised in some way and are binding.

I am able to work the box out about 3/4 of an inch, and then it will not budge. The "hanging point" seems to be in the center of the box from top to bottom. I can rock it up and down, but it pivots and hangs at the center point and will not slide further out of the door. Hope this makes sense.

I removed an identical lock from another door so I could understand how it works. That one is completely intact and slid out like butter. It was helpful to see how they are structured.

Hi Jodella,

Sorry for the long wait on a reply today. I work all day, and this is the first I've checked the posts. I have a question: If you can get it partially out, how much of the lock can you actually see? And what part of the side plate is raised? (Front--near the mounting plate? or Rear--back inside the door?) If it is near the mounting plate, you might be in for quite a time. If it is near the back of the lock, can you get to any of the screws on the side plate? I'm wondering of this can be dismantled inside the door, sliding the plate past the mounting plate? It's a long shot at best, but you might actually have to do this.

Something just occured to me. You mentioned that the Center seems to be where the snag is. Could this be the piece the spindle goes through? You might be able to slip something between the lock and the door enough to hold it in place while you put a bit of force toward pulling it out.

To be honest, there are times when brute force is the only way to get the job done. It has to be done carefully though, or it could cost plenty $$$. My suggestion is to not be afraid of gouging some of the wood. As long is it doesn't mark the surface of the door, or distroy the mounting holes, it should be able to be covered by the faceplate of the lock.

I know this is not the prescribed method, but we're dealing with a stubborn lock here, and drastic measures may be required. And of course, if all else fails, or the nerve runs out, you can always call a Locksmith and have them do it. That way, you won't be responsible for damage.

Please keep us informed of your progress.

cuedude