Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - oak table top
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lam
02-18-06, 10:22 AM
I am in the process of refinishing an oak table, and would like to know what type of finish would be most resistant to water marks and rings left from hot tea cups, etc. My goal is to have a nice finish that would not require using a table pad and tablecloth all of the time, as I like the look of wood.
Thank you
Thank you
mako
02-19-06, 10:49 AM
The answer all depends on what equipment you have for applying the finish.
First and most affordable option, if you don't have an air compressor, is two or three coats of polyurethane (I like Defthane brand myself). Thin the first coat by around 50%, apply medium, allow to dry overnight, sand with 220 paper **with the grain** to smooth out and scuff for the next coat to adhere. Apply one or two more coats at nearly full strength (thin only enough so it lays flat with no brush marks, no more than 10% or so is needed). Scuff with 220 between coats.
If you have a spray gun, that changes things entirely. You can then use what's called Conversion Varnish or maybe even, if you want to spend some cash on this table, use catalyzed polyurethane (very different than the above poly in application and performance).
I can tell you how to use those --- and where to get them---f you have a good spray gun.
I almost forgot about the last resort option---- bar top resin/epoxy. It's a pour-on type liquid. I generally don't use it b/c it's costlier than conversion varnish for me since our shop has conversion varnish just hanging around. Follow manufacturers advice. This is a very, very thick coating. Pretty durable, only a bit less scratch resistant than regular polyurethane.
First and most affordable option, if you don't have an air compressor, is two or three coats of polyurethane (I like Defthane brand myself). Thin the first coat by around 50%, apply medium, allow to dry overnight, sand with 220 paper **with the grain** to smooth out and scuff for the next coat to adhere. Apply one or two more coats at nearly full strength (thin only enough so it lays flat with no brush marks, no more than 10% or so is needed). Scuff with 220 between coats.
If you have a spray gun, that changes things entirely. You can then use what's called Conversion Varnish or maybe even, if you want to spend some cash on this table, use catalyzed polyurethane (very different than the above poly in application and performance).
I can tell you how to use those --- and where to get them---f you have a good spray gun.
I almost forgot about the last resort option---- bar top resin/epoxy. It's a pour-on type liquid. I generally don't use it b/c it's costlier than conversion varnish for me since our shop has conversion varnish just hanging around. Follow manufacturers advice. This is a very, very thick coating. Pretty durable, only a bit less scratch resistant than regular polyurethane.
lam
02-19-06, 02:06 PM
Thank you for your help. I do have access to an air compressor that my husband uses for carpentry, but I don't have a spray gun. Would it be worth buying one? I do refinish furniture frequently. I think I know what the bar finish looks like....I think it might look too thick on this table.
chfite
02-19-06, 02:10 PM
If you refinish furniture frequently, a spray gun would be a worth investment. It allows a fine finish and saves time in application.