Insulation, Radiant and Vapor Barriers - Insulating my basement, question...

Finally to save on wood consumption, I am going to insulate my basement walls and floor. I've been researching for a few days now on trhe proper way, but there are so many varying opinions. I just want to run this by everyone to see if this might be the right way to go.

I read this article, www.buildingscience.com/resources/foundations/Basement_Insulation_Systems-2002.pdf
that is my basis for the following steps.

I have a 4 year old house, fully poured concrete basement. I have no cracks in the walls, just slight ones where the floor and walls join, no leaks though.
I have a perimeter drain so the water does not stand near the walls.

Step 1 - glue 3/4" extruded polystyrene to the walls and top of walls.
?What type of glue?
?Should I stop about 3-5 inches from the floor?

Step 2 - Frame 2*4 walls up using PT againts the floor.
?How close to the rigid foam?

Step 3 - insulate with R13 fiberglass batts, non faced, no vapor barrier.
?How do I support the insulation in the cavity?
?can the fiberglass insulation touch the rigid foam insulation?
Step 4 - Hang 1/2 inch sheetrock, mud, and paint.

For the floor;

Step 1 - install PT 2*4 laying flat 24" on center.

Step 2 - install extruded poly rigid foam between the 2*4s

Step 3 - cover with 3/4 " T&G plywood.

Is that it?



Thanks

Like you said there are so many ways to do things but it sounds like you have a dry basement which in my opinion is the most important.

I did my floor first but instead of PT lumber I put down a 6 mil Poly barrier then nailed 2x4s flat with 1.5 inch rigid foam insulation between then the plywood. Stagger your edges with the Plywood.

Now I am framing my walls with 2x4s ( this way you are framing on your built up floor rather than concrete) And I will use R-13 faced insulation then drywaal.

It sounds like you are on the right track.

Good luck!

[QUOTE=egghead2004]
IStep 1 - glue 3/4" extruded polystyrene to the walls and top of walls.
?What type of glue?
?Should I stop about 3-5 inches from the floor?

Step 2 - Frame 2*4 walls up using PT againts the floor.
?How close to the rigid foam?



Liquid Nails makes a glue for foamboard. Use only a glue for foamboard as i have read that other glues will break down the foam. I put my 2x4's directly against the foamboard. Owens Corning makes a product called INSULPINK especially for basements. It has sort of a tongue and groove so the edges fit perfectly. I also taped the joints with Tyvek tape.

Egghead
I hope Leventmine's house isn't new, because his slab will continue to bleed moisture toward the living space for a few years. At least it would if the poly weren't there. So now it will just accumulate. And faced insulation in the walls isn't much better than batt+poly.

As long as your slab is below grade & you have some sort of perimeter insulation, sutffing rigid in between the floor rafters won't really help much, or make much of a difference. You're already pretty well covered.

As for the walls, the batt should definitely touch the rigid. I don't see why the lumber couldn't touch the rigid too. Batts would have to be friction fit.

If you are building and insulating, there is only one good place to use foam board or bead board(EXPANDED polystyrene) - in the cheap throw away cooler for your lunch!!

Use rigid EXTRUDED polystyrene (blue, pink, etc.). It insulates betterand is easier to handle and work with.

Dick