Walls and Ceilings - Best Way To Mark Lights And Outlet Boxes

Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.




DIYER
02-09-06, 07:08 AM
What is the best way to mark the lights and the outlet boxes on drywall. I figure i can measure where the box will fall and precut the hole in the drywall. I have heard put lipstick around the outlet box and push the drywall in place which will leave a mark on the drywall. I also heard the chalk idea but have heard it does not work that well. Any ideas?


pgtek
02-09-06, 01:07 PM
hi
just insert one screw in each of the outlet box one on top and one in the bottom and press the drywal on it it will mark the exact spot and all you have to do this to cut out the box from your mark

XSleeper
02-09-06, 01:41 PM
precutting outlets rarely works well, and most professionals do not use that method. They don't like taping the mistakes on every other outlet that was cut out 1/4" too wide. That's because it's easier and faster to measure- mark the center of the box on the drywall, then put the drywall up, tacking the edges just enough so it stays put. The drywall will bow out over the outlet, since it sticks 1/2" past the framing.

Professionals would then use a router (rotozip or similar) to router around the outside of the box. Once they do that, viola! the drywall pushes back the rest of the way and it's a perfect fit every time. (unless you get crazy with the router.) The trick is routering the correct direction, which is usually clockwise with all the routers I've ever used. When you router clockwise, the router bit forces itself against the box and follows it easier. If you router counterclockwise, the bit will want to wander AWAY from the box, which is a very bad thing unless you like gigantic outlet covers. If you don't have a router, you can do the same exact thing with a drywall keyhole saw. The only difference would be that you might want to cut out the INSIDE of the box first so that you don't cut too far- once you have the inside of the box cut out, it's much easier to take the drywall saw and go around the outside of the outlet, since you can see what you're doing.


kona
02-09-06, 01:45 PM
Measure it off of the edge of the panel to the side and the one above.
Ex. measuring off the edge of a panel to the left that is installed, the outside edges of the box might be 18" (outer edge of left side of box) and 20 1/2" (outside of box's right side) from this other panel. The verticals might be 16" and 20". Take the panel you need to cut, and while looking at it as it will hang on the wall, transfer the measurements onto it. Use a square to connect the marks and cut out with your knife or saw. It should fit perfectly.

MudSlinger
02-09-06, 03:51 PM
I use a drywall router, and have measured. Both work but the router is far quicker after you screw up your first two or three boxes.

Something that was mentioned, although not emphasised is ALWAYS measure down from above. This way, your sheet will fit tight against the ceiling. You'd rather have the floor up one inch, that a one gap in the ceiling.

My .02

ALWAYS WATCH OUT FOR WIRES IN THE BOX!!!!!

P.S. if you already put in the outlets, you will need to measure instead of using a router. :(

bigmtk
02-10-06, 01:53 AM
I use a rotozip.

To correct an earlier post, electrical boxes and such (objects that you are following the outside edge of) are cut counterclockwise. Door openings and such (objects you are following the inside edge of) are cut clockwise.

As MudSlinger said Watch Out For Wires.
Electricians take it personally when some drywaller has nicked all the wires in every box on a job.

Also be careful not to mangle the box itself as well. Especially with those cheap blue plastic boxes its almost too easy to cut through the side of one or to accidentally cut off one of the tabs that the outlet screws into.

DIYER
02-10-06, 01:07 PM
Thanks for all the useful tips. I already had the wires in my boxes for my rough -in inspection. I will probably try the router and measuring and see which produces a cleaner job. I would rather take a little longer but have a clean look when i am done.
Thanks again.

marksr
02-10-06, 01:43 PM
The wires should always be already in the box. What mudslinger was reffering to was if you had already installed the devices [plug ins, switches]
As he and bigmk were saying be carefull you don't harm the wires when you cut with a router which is the easiest best method. I have a good friend who is an electrician - his biggest complaint with hangers is when they cut wires and there is not enough slack [wires] in the wall making splicing/fixing the wires a real pain.

XSleeper
02-10-06, 02:11 PM
Just to add to what's been said, it's best to fold the wires up and push them all the way to the back of the box. Then when you router, don't jam the router bit all the way back- just insert it deep enough that you can follow the box. You really won't be routering the inside of the box... just inserting your bit somewhere in the center of the box, then moving over until you feel the edge of the box... then skipping over to the outside of the box and routering around it. The side of the box that is a little tricky to do is usually the side of the box that is nailed to the stud. Your router bit will only go in 1/2" and it will be riding on the stud. If you keep that in mind you won't burn up your bits so fast, and you won't be suprised when your bit stops and won't go around the box- since the stud is there you usually have the bit too deep to go around that side.

MudSlinger
02-10-06, 03:42 PM
Great info on this thread!

For anyone not familiar with routering, the bits that you use do not have flutes (cutting edges) all the way to the end. The last 3/8" or so are smooth as to be used as a guide.

Also, do not screw the drywall too close to the box or feature you will be cutting. If you do, (say on an outlet), the pressure from screwing it too close, and the box pushing the drywall "out" will cause the last part you are cutting to "blowout", in turn needing patching. After the box is cut out, go back and put the rest of the screws in.

Also, if you go around the room before you begin drywalling, and mark each light, switch, outlet, on the floor below it with flourescent marker paint, you can easily find any outlets or switches that may accidently get covered over. (obviously- don't do this if the flooring is already in, as you will need to buy a lot of new furniture to cover over all your marks.)