Walls and Ceilings - Kneewall?
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dkpbxman
02-03-06, 05:13 PM
Currently, my front door opens directly into my living room in the corner of the room. I'd like to build a 4' x 8' kneewall in the room just past the door and attached to the inside of the exterior wall to give me a small "mud" area as you walk into the house.
Couple of questions:
The house is on a concrete slab so would wedge anchors be enough to secure the "sill plate" of the new wall into the concrete and what would be the best way to ensure that the top of the far "unsupported" end stays steady? Afraid of it, over time, loosening up and moving whenever any horizontal load is put on it.
The wall could only be a max. of 3" wide because of other limitations.
Thanks for any help,
Dan
Couple of questions:
The house is on a concrete slab so would wedge anchors be enough to secure the "sill plate" of the new wall into the concrete and what would be the best way to ensure that the top of the far "unsupported" end stays steady? Afraid of it, over time, loosening up and moving whenever any horizontal load is put on it.
The wall could only be a max. of 3" wide because of other limitations.
Thanks for any help,
Dan
MudSlinger
02-04-06, 03:28 AM
Dan,
a 4x8 wall, 3 inches thick is only going to allow a framing member of 2 inches. I don't know that any anchor is going to give you the ridgid support that you require.
Wedge anchors will hold into the sill plate, although at a 4' or 8' moment, the force of even 10lbs pushing against the corner is going to exert 40 pounds at the anchor, and 80 lbs force where the knee meets the vertical wall. Increase this to somebody leaning against it, and you have far greater force.
Whenever I have tried to support something "freestanding", the sill has to be held down not in the center, but on each side of the board. As your sill is only 2" wide, you probably won't be able to get enogh spread in the anchors to prevent "wobble".
If it is possible to sink a post where the end of the wall is going to be, you may consider doing that by using concrete to hold it in place, and then build the wall out to and "around" it. A 2" diameter pipe could be encapsulated pretty easily and may provide the required support at the end.
I hope this helps.
a 4x8 wall, 3 inches thick is only going to allow a framing member of 2 inches. I don't know that any anchor is going to give you the ridgid support that you require.
Wedge anchors will hold into the sill plate, although at a 4' or 8' moment, the force of even 10lbs pushing against the corner is going to exert 40 pounds at the anchor, and 80 lbs force where the knee meets the vertical wall. Increase this to somebody leaning against it, and you have far greater force.
Whenever I have tried to support something "freestanding", the sill has to be held down not in the center, but on each side of the board. As your sill is only 2" wide, you probably won't be able to get enogh spread in the anchors to prevent "wobble".
If it is possible to sink a post where the end of the wall is going to be, you may consider doing that by using concrete to hold it in place, and then build the wall out to and "around" it. A 2" diameter pipe could be encapsulated pretty easily and may provide the required support at the end.
I hope this helps.
dkpbxman
02-06-06, 06:21 PM
Good idea with the post! I assume it would have to be screwed into the concrete and extend thru the ceiling and attached to the attic floor joists above? (it's a 1 story ranch) after passing thru, and securing, the wall?
MudSlinger
02-06-06, 07:01 PM
Well that would be one way to do it. I was moreover thinking knocking a whole in the concrete and cementing it into the whole (as one would a flag pole). But if you can do a post to the ceiling joists, you may not even need to break into the concrete. Just tie it in at the top, and anchor the floor plate as you were going to do with anchors.
Ahhhh....it looks like we are almost done :thumbup: :coffee:
I hope this too helps.
Ahhhh....it looks like we are almost done :thumbup: :coffee:
I hope this too helps.