Walls and Ceilings - drywall on hurricane wall

I've started a garage drywall job with 5/8" type X. The interior walls are roof load bearing, and are 8' 1" to exposed T&G roofing, which will be kept visible.
The top and bottom sill plates use wrapped steel strapping, which go some 9" up and down from the sill plates. Obviously, drywall screws won't be going thru that steel. Should I siamise some short 2x stock to the side and drywall attach into those? I'm not planning on using adhesive.
Along the same lines, the sheets have only about 1/2" overlap at the sill plate; i'm hanging vertically. Should I use short 2x on the bottom sill plate for drywall attach here also?
thanks for the help!

I am not familiar with the hurricane straps that run 9" down the studs, although there are self tapping screws that can drill through light gage steel.

(I did evacuate from the Keys for hurricane Andrew (Aug 1992) though :) )

When a stud is "split" there is only 3/4 overlap, although adding additional nailers never hurts, especially if you can't run screws down the entire length of the stud.

For my own education, why aren't you planning on using adhesive? I'm only asking because if the area requires bracing for framing in case of hurricanes, wouldn't you want to do everything possible to make sure the drywall stays on the studs too?

Please don't read this as a criticism of your work, as that isn't my intent; it just seems odd. If you need to redo it down the road, not having glue on the studs is easier to deal with, but the insurance company will be paying for it if it needs to be done.

Also, if the top can't be screwed into, the adhesive will hold the drywall just about as good against the upper part of the studs and top plates. (if not better than screws will.)

(If adhesive and screws are used on drywall, and then every screw is removed, the drywall will stay in place. Nobody should ever do it, but the adhesive holds well.)

Thank you, in advance, for any info you can give me.

OK, I looked up the simpson # for my stud wraps, they are SPH4Z. 18g steel, a bit thick, i think for a reasonable shot at self tapping screws. I'm rethinking the use of adhesive; the plans didn't call it out, but i see now some merit for its use. thanks for the help!

Self tapping screws would have no problem in 18 gauge steel.
I've even put pointed screws into 18 gauge, though self tappers would make life easier.