Walls and Ceilings - Plasterboard wall disaster!
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x_Dylan_x
01-29-06, 02:06 PM
Hi all!
Got a bit of a problem... Quite recently 1 of my kichen cabinets fell off the wall. It was situated on plasterboard, held in by wall anchors. When it came away the stress on the anchors pulled out some lovely chunks from my wall! : :madhell:
I'm soon to be fitting a new kitchen, and the cabinets are going to be in the same place, so I was wondering... what's the best way to repair the damage in such a way that it will once again be strong enough to be load bearing?
Any ideas??
Got a bit of a problem... Quite recently 1 of my kichen cabinets fell off the wall. It was situated on plasterboard, held in by wall anchors. When it came away the stress on the anchors pulled out some lovely chunks from my wall! : :madhell:
I'm soon to be fitting a new kitchen, and the cabinets are going to be in the same place, so I was wondering... what's the best way to repair the damage in such a way that it will once again be strong enough to be load bearing?
Any ideas??
MudSlinger
01-29-06, 02:19 PM
first RELAX!...You have a couple very easy solutions,
1. You can get a furring strip, or a piece of 1x4 and mount that horizontally across the entire length of the cabinets; one strip high, and one low. Glue these strips to the wall and fasten them to each vertical stud using screws. Then screw your cabinets to those strips. (You could even use three rows if you like)
2. Or, you can open the wall and fasten 14-1/2" pieces of wood between the studs, patch the drywall, and mount the cabinets to them.
If you choose the first method, you will need to put a strip at the end of the cabinet to hide the end of the 1x4, unless the cabinets are "wall to wall".
When remounting the cabinets, you can screw a ledger board below the cabinet level and rest the cabinet on that so you don't need to hold it up and screw it in at the same time. Then remove the ledger board when you are done and fill the holes with joint compound or spackle.
As you are tearing it all out anyway, you may be able to remove the 1/2 drywall behind the cabinet area, and glue and screw a piece of 1/2 plywood in its place. You should first see if code in your area will allow you to do that though. If they say plywood is o.k., they will probably make you tape the joint between the plywood and drywall so if there is a fire, it will not run through to the studs.
I hope this helps.
(Look at the good side... nobody will see the drywall behind the cabinets, so your patch doesn't have to be "stellar".)
1. You can get a furring strip, or a piece of 1x4 and mount that horizontally across the entire length of the cabinets; one strip high, and one low. Glue these strips to the wall and fasten them to each vertical stud using screws. Then screw your cabinets to those strips. (You could even use three rows if you like)
2. Or, you can open the wall and fasten 14-1/2" pieces of wood between the studs, patch the drywall, and mount the cabinets to them.
If you choose the first method, you will need to put a strip at the end of the cabinet to hide the end of the 1x4, unless the cabinets are "wall to wall".
When remounting the cabinets, you can screw a ledger board below the cabinet level and rest the cabinet on that so you don't need to hold it up and screw it in at the same time. Then remove the ledger board when you are done and fill the holes with joint compound or spackle.
As you are tearing it all out anyway, you may be able to remove the 1/2 drywall behind the cabinet area, and glue and screw a piece of 1/2 plywood in its place. You should first see if code in your area will allow you to do that though. If they say plywood is o.k., they will probably make you tape the joint between the plywood and drywall so if there is a fire, it will not run through to the studs.
I hope this helps.
(Look at the good side... nobody will see the drywall behind the cabinets, so your patch doesn't have to be "stellar".)
x_Dylan_x
01-29-06, 02:34 PM
Thanks 4 the advice MudSlinger, I did have something similar in mind myself, but being fairly new to DIY I wanted to get a knowledable second opinion to avoid any blunders!
Just a couple of questions...
1. This is probably a silly question! The 1x4 furring strip. Would that be a standard bit of timber 1" x 4"? If it is, being 1" in thickness, would that not make the cabinet in question petrude a bit?
2. With the second patching method... What kind of plaster would be best suited for the job? And when it comes to installing the cabinets, would I be drilling the anchors stright into the timber aswel?
Just a couple of questions...
1. This is probably a silly question! The 1x4 furring strip. Would that be a standard bit of timber 1" x 4"? If it is, being 1" in thickness, would that not make the cabinet in question petrude a bit?
2. With the second patching method... What kind of plaster would be best suited for the job? And when it comes to installing the cabinets, would I be drilling the anchors stright into the timber aswel?
MudSlinger
01-29-06, 02:58 PM
Concerning your questions:
1. Yes, your cabinets will protrude a bit. That is why you will need a strip at the end (that is the strip I mentioned after option 2). Although a 1x4 isn't actually 1", I think it is actually 3/4 (although I may be wrong, but it is close), and it is a "standard" piece of lumber.
(I like 1x4's because they are very "clean", even though they cost a little more, I'm not struggling with warped furring strips.)
2. In regard to your second question, you won't use anchors, because you have solid wood to screw into. Anchors are used when a screw thread can't bite into a material, but you still need to thread something into the surface. Or, you need additional strength. "When you have wood - your usually good!"
I hope this too helps.
1. Yes, your cabinets will protrude a bit. That is why you will need a strip at the end (that is the strip I mentioned after option 2). Although a 1x4 isn't actually 1", I think it is actually 3/4 (although I may be wrong, but it is close), and it is a "standard" piece of lumber.
(I like 1x4's because they are very "clean", even though they cost a little more, I'm not struggling with warped furring strips.)
2. In regard to your second question, you won't use anchors, because you have solid wood to screw into. Anchors are used when a screw thread can't bite into a material, but you still need to thread something into the surface. Or, you need additional strength. "When you have wood - your usually good!"
I hope this too helps.