Carpentry and Woodworking - Treated Lumber around Water
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Treated Lumber around Water
LeauNotes
01-27-06, 02:08 PM
I am building some wooded boxes.
3 questions:
1. If I use treated lumber (2x4's and plywood), do I still have to apply a waterproofing finish?
2. If #1 is yes, do I apply the finish to each piece of wood before assembling the box or after the box is assembled?
3. Do I apply glue to the pieces before or after applying the waterproofing finish?
3 questions:
1. If I use treated lumber (2x4's and plywood), do I still have to apply a waterproofing finish?
2. If #1 is yes, do I apply the finish to each piece of wood before assembling the box or after the box is assembled?
3. Do I apply glue to the pieces before or after applying the waterproofing finish?
majakdragon
01-27-06, 02:29 PM
With the projects I have built using treated lumber, I was told not to use a sealer before the wood gets a drying out (weathering) period. Most sealers will not penetrate the wood when it is new. Assemble your projects and install them. The use a sealer after a few months. Good luck.
IBM5081
01-27-06, 06:31 PM
Most PT lumber and plywood still have the water from the treatment in the wood. I build outdoor handicap ramps from this material - 2x4, 2x6 and 3/4" ply. Here are the rules:
1. Due to the water content, glue won't stick and finishes won't let the wood dry out properly, so screws or ring-shank nails are the fasteners of choice.
2. PT material today is treated with ACQ or other treatment chemicals. They are highly corrosive to bare steel fasteners. These are your options:
- stainless steel nails/screws - quite expensive
- coated deck screws rated for ACQ lumber
- hot-dipped, galvanized nails, preferably ring-shank rated for ACQ lumber. the old electro-galvanized nails will not last in the new preservative.
3. You will actually get water splash as the screws seat or the nails are driven home.
4. If SOME boxes is less than a dozen and you have the time, then screws work very well. Start with a 5# box. If you are building more than a dozen boxes and really using a bunch of fasteners, consider a pneumatic framing nailer with 3" HDG ringshank nails. I use 3" to connect the framing and 2+3/8" to secure the plywood to the framing. They come 2000 nails per box typically.
1. Due to the water content, glue won't stick and finishes won't let the wood dry out properly, so screws or ring-shank nails are the fasteners of choice.
2. PT material today is treated with ACQ or other treatment chemicals. They are highly corrosive to bare steel fasteners. These are your options:
- stainless steel nails/screws - quite expensive
- coated deck screws rated for ACQ lumber
- hot-dipped, galvanized nails, preferably ring-shank rated for ACQ lumber. the old electro-galvanized nails will not last in the new preservative.
3. You will actually get water splash as the screws seat or the nails are driven home.
4. If SOME boxes is less than a dozen and you have the time, then screws work very well. Start with a 5# box. If you are building more than a dozen boxes and really using a bunch of fasteners, consider a pneumatic framing nailer with 3" HDG ringshank nails. I use 3" to connect the framing and 2+3/8" to secure the plywood to the framing. They come 2000 nails per box typically.