Air Conditioning - Condensate Drain trap & air pressure
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ArgMeMatey
01-26-06, 08:22 PM
Is there some rule-of-thumb or other way to calculate how deep a condensate drain trap has to be to withstand the pressure coming from the furnace blower?
I have three hoses coming off my furnace that I want to replace with one 3/4" CPVC line:
1. A/C evaporator condensate & backup drain, two (2) 3/4"
2. Humidifier drain, one (1) 1/2"
3. Furnace combustion condensate drain one (1) 5/8"
The A/C evaporator will be under pressure since it's on the supply side. The humidifier may have slight suction since it's on the return side.
I was thinking of trapping the A/C condensate drain line so conditioned air does not go "down the drain". In order to provide a winter trap seal, I would tee in the humidifier in the bottom of the trap as a primer. The combustion condensate would then tee in after the trap.
I am wondering if the supply air pressure will force the water out of a 3/4" trap. I don't have any accurate way to measure static pressure but I can feel plenty of air coming out of the evaporator drain holes when the furnace is running.
Thanks.
I have three hoses coming off my furnace that I want to replace with one 3/4" CPVC line:
1. A/C evaporator condensate & backup drain, two (2) 3/4"
2. Humidifier drain, one (1) 1/2"
3. Furnace combustion condensate drain one (1) 5/8"
The A/C evaporator will be under pressure since it's on the supply side. The humidifier may have slight suction since it's on the return side.
I was thinking of trapping the A/C condensate drain line so conditioned air does not go "down the drain". In order to provide a winter trap seal, I would tee in the humidifier in the bottom of the trap as a primer. The combustion condensate would then tee in after the trap.
I am wondering if the supply air pressure will force the water out of a 3/4" trap. I don't have any accurate way to measure static pressure but I can feel plenty of air coming out of the evaporator drain holes when the furnace is running.
Thanks.
Jay11J
01-27-06, 07:15 AM
Since your coil is on the pressure side of the furnace, you don't need a trap. the only time a trap is needed if the coil is on the negtive side of the furnace.
so let everything free flow down, and 3/4 drain is large enough.
The pressure is kinda good, it will help push the water out of the line.
so let everything free flow down, and 3/4 drain is large enough.
The pressure is kinda good, it will help push the water out of the line.
Jay11J
01-27-06, 07:16 AM
Since your coil is on the pressure side of the furnace, you don't need a trap. the only time a trap is needed if the coil is on the negtive side of the furnace.
so let everything free flow down, and 3/4 drain is large enough. Also, put a T in the line from the coil just in case you need to flush out the line.
The pressure is kinda good, it will help push the water out of the line.
so let everything free flow down, and 3/4 drain is large enough. Also, put a T in the line from the coil just in case you need to flush out the line.
The pressure is kinda good, it will help push the water out of the line.
sjc1701
02-02-06, 03:18 PM
To check differential pressure I've used a piece of plastic tubing. Needs to be long enough to 'simulate' a trap. Put some water in, hold the ends snug against the fittings, and see how much difference there is between water level on your high and low side.