Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Refinishing Pine Floors
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SkiSTX
01-25-06, 10:24 AM
This is partly just to share my experience and also to garner advice from those more knowlegable than I am. I have read a lot of advice on this forum and elsewhere on the web, and have talked to some friends and family members about it. Some of the advice I have gotten has been conflicting and I would like to get some clarification and advice. I have taken the time to provide as many details as possible and hope to get a quality response. Thank you.
I am refinishing original pine floors in my century home. Some spots have a blackish gunky finish on them while other spots are almost natural (I think they finished around their rugs at one point!). Many boards have a gap between them of about 1/8th inch. There is no subfloor.
I am starting in a 10x10 room. I can't do the whole house at once as that would be quite an inconvenience for the others that live there. So I decided that it would be in my best intrest to purchase a 3x18 belt sander for about 50$. That way I could do one room at a time and not have to go rent a drum sander for each room I do. I am using 'course' alum oxide paper (I think it is 60 grit?).
The pine boards are rather uneven and some are convex, while others are concave. It is taking a rather long time to try to level out the planks to the point where all the surface of the board gets sanded. I have been going against the grain/across 2-3 boards to try to get them level with reference to each other first and then turning the sander with the grain to finish up. Is this a good technique?
I am wondering what to do about the edges. I think I could simply use the belt sander to get fairly close (against the grain), and then use a hand sanding block to finish up with the grain. Would renting an edger be more practical... how much does it cost?
Once everything is level and smooth with the course grit, I think the finer grits sould go much faster with the sander I am using. Should I leave it at medium grit or do both the medium and fine?
My over all goal is to wind up with floors that are as light in color as possible, but still have highly contrasting grain. On the part that I have sanded (about 1/8th of the room... and it's been 2 hours of sanding thus far!) the sanded pine floor seems to be a reddish/orangish/goldish color. What kind/color of stain should I use, what brand is recommended, and what is the procedure? The way I understand it is that you wipe it on liberally, wait x amount of time (10 mins maybe) and wipe it up. Then you let it dry for a few days before poly. Do I have this about right? Of course I will consult any directions as well.
Also I have heard the phrase 'water popping' the grain. What is this and would it help increase the contrast of the grain to the... umm... 'non-grain' part?
Then the next step would be poly. I assume everything needs to be well vaccumed and tacky clothed (maybe even before the staining?). I have some concerns about those 1/8th inch gaps between the boards. Won't the poly just puddle in these spots? What will happen to the poly when/if the boards shift? Will the extra ploy in the cracks hold the boards together or will I run the risk of ending up with cracks in the poly along the gaps? The boards are squeeky in places and you can visibly see some of them move vertically when stepped on.
As to poly itself, I have heard a lot of discussion about water vs. oil based. From what I gather, the oil based is tougher but has the tendency to yellow or amber over time, while the water is crystal clear, but not as durable. Is this about right? I have also heard someone say to do the first two coats in gloss and then only do the final coat in semi-gloss or satin so that the over all look is clearer. How about 2 coats of water based gloss and then a top coat of satin oil based poly for toughness? Can you even mix them? Any other thoughts on what to choose, or what brands or types etc?
I am planning on doing three coats with a light sanding and tacky cloth between each coat. No sanding after the final coat. Am I on the right track there?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. I hope this project turns out well and I will up date this site with further developments and the project progresses. I also hope that the answers provided here will benefit others that run into it in the future with the same questions.
-Chad
I am refinishing original pine floors in my century home. Some spots have a blackish gunky finish on them while other spots are almost natural (I think they finished around their rugs at one point!). Many boards have a gap between them of about 1/8th inch. There is no subfloor.
I am starting in a 10x10 room. I can't do the whole house at once as that would be quite an inconvenience for the others that live there. So I decided that it would be in my best intrest to purchase a 3x18 belt sander for about 50$. That way I could do one room at a time and not have to go rent a drum sander for each room I do. I am using 'course' alum oxide paper (I think it is 60 grit?).
The pine boards are rather uneven and some are convex, while others are concave. It is taking a rather long time to try to level out the planks to the point where all the surface of the board gets sanded. I have been going against the grain/across 2-3 boards to try to get them level with reference to each other first and then turning the sander with the grain to finish up. Is this a good technique?
I am wondering what to do about the edges. I think I could simply use the belt sander to get fairly close (against the grain), and then use a hand sanding block to finish up with the grain. Would renting an edger be more practical... how much does it cost?
Once everything is level and smooth with the course grit, I think the finer grits sould go much faster with the sander I am using. Should I leave it at medium grit or do both the medium and fine?
My over all goal is to wind up with floors that are as light in color as possible, but still have highly contrasting grain. On the part that I have sanded (about 1/8th of the room... and it's been 2 hours of sanding thus far!) the sanded pine floor seems to be a reddish/orangish/goldish color. What kind/color of stain should I use, what brand is recommended, and what is the procedure? The way I understand it is that you wipe it on liberally, wait x amount of time (10 mins maybe) and wipe it up. Then you let it dry for a few days before poly. Do I have this about right? Of course I will consult any directions as well.
Also I have heard the phrase 'water popping' the grain. What is this and would it help increase the contrast of the grain to the... umm... 'non-grain' part?
Then the next step would be poly. I assume everything needs to be well vaccumed and tacky clothed (maybe even before the staining?). I have some concerns about those 1/8th inch gaps between the boards. Won't the poly just puddle in these spots? What will happen to the poly when/if the boards shift? Will the extra ploy in the cracks hold the boards together or will I run the risk of ending up with cracks in the poly along the gaps? The boards are squeeky in places and you can visibly see some of them move vertically when stepped on.
As to poly itself, I have heard a lot of discussion about water vs. oil based. From what I gather, the oil based is tougher but has the tendency to yellow or amber over time, while the water is crystal clear, but not as durable. Is this about right? I have also heard someone say to do the first two coats in gloss and then only do the final coat in semi-gloss or satin so that the over all look is clearer. How about 2 coats of water based gloss and then a top coat of satin oil based poly for toughness? Can you even mix them? Any other thoughts on what to choose, or what brands or types etc?
I am planning on doing three coats with a light sanding and tacky cloth between each coat. No sanding after the final coat. Am I on the right track there?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. I hope this project turns out well and I will up date this site with further developments and the project progresses. I also hope that the answers provided here will benefit others that run into it in the future with the same questions.
-Chad