Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Humidifier Guidance - HE360A
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TagHeuer
01-22-06, 03:55 PM
I am looking to install a humidifier with a York GY8S furnace. I was looking at an HE360A and I had some questions/concerns that I thought you might be able to help with:
1. Is this the appropriate model to install? Or should I consider the HE220 Bypass model? What are the benefits of the 360 over the 220?
2. Is a sail switch necessary for the install? Can the unit be wired directly to the furnace? The control board has both "HUM" and "EAC" connections. The installation kit includes a sail switch along with cheap looking tubing and connectors. I'd prefer to forego the kit if possible as I will, at the very least, be using copper tubing for the water feed.
3. Powering the unit was also a concern. I have a switched outlet on the furnace, but it is used by the pump to send water from the AC to the sump.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions!
1. Is this the appropriate model to install? Or should I consider the HE220 Bypass model? What are the benefits of the 360 over the 220?
2. Is a sail switch necessary for the install? Can the unit be wired directly to the furnace? The control board has both "HUM" and "EAC" connections. The installation kit includes a sail switch along with cheap looking tubing and connectors. I'd prefer to forego the kit if possible as I will, at the very least, be using copper tubing for the water feed.
3. Powering the unit was also a concern. I have a switched outlet on the furnace, but it is used by the pump to send water from the AC to the sump.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions!
Jay11J
01-23-06, 08:22 AM
I am looking to install a humidifier with a York GY8S furnace. I was looking at an HE360A and I had some questions/concerns that I thought you might be able to help with:
1. Is this the appropriate model to install? Or should I consider the HE220 Bypass model? What are the benefits of the 360 over the 220?[/qoute]
Nothing really, the 360 model has a built in fan and duct work are hard to get to to use the by pass set up, I personly don't care for the power unit.
[quote]2. Is a sail switch necessary for the install? Can the unit be wired directly to the furnace? The control board has both "HUM" and "EAC" connections. The installation kit includes a sail switch along with cheap looking tubing and connectors. I'd prefer to forego the kit if possible as I will, at the very least, be using copper tubing for the water feed.
3. Powering the unit was also a concern. I have a switched outlet on the furnace, but it is used by the pump to send water from the AC to the sump.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions!
You don't have to use the kit if you know for a fact that the furnace provides 24 volts at one of the two thermials. If it's 120 volts, then you need the transfromer (I think they are part of the kits?) If it's used then you don't need the sail switch. Copper water line would be better.
You can use the sump for the drain water from the humidifer.
1. Is this the appropriate model to install? Or should I consider the HE220 Bypass model? What are the benefits of the 360 over the 220?[/qoute]
Nothing really, the 360 model has a built in fan and duct work are hard to get to to use the by pass set up, I personly don't care for the power unit.
[quote]2. Is a sail switch necessary for the install? Can the unit be wired directly to the furnace? The control board has both "HUM" and "EAC" connections. The installation kit includes a sail switch along with cheap looking tubing and connectors. I'd prefer to forego the kit if possible as I will, at the very least, be using copper tubing for the water feed.
3. Powering the unit was also a concern. I have a switched outlet on the furnace, but it is used by the pump to send water from the AC to the sump.
Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions!
You don't have to use the kit if you know for a fact that the furnace provides 24 volts at one of the two thermials. If it's 120 volts, then you need the transfromer (I think they are part of the kits?) If it's used then you don't need the sail switch. Copper water line would be better.
You can use the sump for the drain water from the humidifer.
TagHeuer
01-24-06, 07:06 AM
I did have an Aprilaire bypass model in my old house and that seemed to work fine. I was looking at the powered unit since this house is much larger (3200 sq feet). Does your opinion change based on that? Since I'm new at this, I'm wondering why you feel the bypass model is better than the powered?
Also, How do I check to verify the output of the HUM/EAC terminals? Multimeter? (I'm handy, but not as knowledgeable about wiring)?
Thanks again for the help, Jay!
Also, How do I check to verify the output of the HUM/EAC terminals? Multimeter? (I'm handy, but not as knowledgeable about wiring)?
Thanks again for the help, Jay!
Jay11J
01-24-06, 11:14 AM
Ok, you do have a farily large home, then the power unit will have to come into play.
Reason I am not big on the power unit, just more things to go wrong. Also you got water above the furnace, and something fails, water may get into the furnace.
Take a multi meter and take a reading at the termial, or if you stll have the furnace install manual, it may tell you.
Reason I am not big on the power unit, just more things to go wrong. Also you got water above the furnace, and something fails, water may get into the furnace.
Take a multi meter and take a reading at the termial, or if you stll have the furnace install manual, it may tell you.
TagHeuer
01-24-06, 02:40 PM
OK. So I'm good with the power unit.
I checked the installation manual for the furnace and it indicates that the two 1/4" spade terminals (HUM and HUM N) provide 115 VAC during system operation. Does this mean I'm a no-go on connecting to the control board. If so, are there work arounds for me to consider? I would love to avoid using the sail switch!
I checked the installation manual for the furnace and it indicates that the two 1/4" spade terminals (HUM and HUM N) provide 115 VAC during system operation. Does this mean I'm a no-go on connecting to the control board. If so, are there work arounds for me to consider? I would love to avoid using the sail switch!
Jay11J
01-24-06, 05:14 PM
Power unit has it's own transformer? (Most of them do)
If yes, then yeah you are kinda out of luck. Where if it didn't have it's own transfromer, (like the by pass model) you could hook up a transfromer to the board, and the board would power the unit on and off.
If yes, then yeah you are kinda out of luck. Where if it didn't have it's own transfromer, (like the by pass model) you could hook up a transfromer to the board, and the board would power the unit on and off.
macd
01-27-06, 10:53 AM
The HE220 comes with a transformer.
I hooked the high voltage side to the furnace 120vac HTG - ACC pegs, and the low voltage side in series with the humidistat and humidifier.
I did not use the kit which comes with a plug-in style transformer and sail switch.
I only needed a piece of semi-rigid duct and some plastic tubing for the water and drain lines.
For me, the 220 is keeping up fine with my 4200 sqft leaky old house.
I hooked the high voltage side to the furnace 120vac HTG - ACC pegs, and the low voltage side in series with the humidistat and humidifier.
I did not use the kit which comes with a plug-in style transformer and sail switch.
I only needed a piece of semi-rigid duct and some plastic tubing for the water and drain lines.
For me, the 220 is keeping up fine with my 4200 sqft leaky old house.