Walls and Ceilings - bow in drywall on ceiling.
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jaws
01-16-06, 09:54 AM
I hung the drywall on the ceiling in the basement (glued and screwed) and when I got done I noticed there is a bow in the drywall. One of the floor joist must be shorter than the rest because the drywall sucks in there. It is roughly 1/4" bow over that one joist. What is the best way to fix this without removing the drywall (12' sheets). Can I just mud over this "low" spot and finish it flush with the rest of the ceiling or is that too much mud? Or should I just leave it alone?
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
IHI
01-16-06, 05:15 PM
If you'd a just screwed it removing that sheet would've been ideal with a fur out and then re hang, but the glue adds a headache factor:)
Get yourself a knockdown knife (typically 24-36"wide drywall kinfe that they use when appliing knock down and build out that area. It'll still take some time and alot of mud but it'll look alot better for a final product.
Get yourself a knockdown knife (typically 24-36"wide drywall kinfe that they use when appliing knock down and build out that area. It'll still take some time and alot of mud but it'll look alot better for a final product.
MudSlinger
01-17-06, 03:54 AM
You may want to leave it, although if a shadow is there, I would fill it with mud. If it is deep, you may want to use a setting type compound first, as regular mud that is deep will take a long time to dry.
Once the main "ditch" is filled you can coat with regular mud.
(It will take a little effort to get it done well, although it is very possible)
Once the main "ditch" is filled you can coat with regular mud.
(It will take a little effort to get it done well, although it is very possible)
mitch17
01-17-06, 06:03 AM
If you use joint compound, put on several thin coats, a thick coat will take too long to dry and probably crack on you.
jaws
01-17-06, 08:02 AM
The Ditch is right above the entrance in this room. I would like to fix it. If I use a 90 minute set time compound how long do I really have to "work with it" before it sets? I assume I should try to fill just below flush so I have room for a lighter compound to finish it smooth and feather the edges. How thick is too thick for the regular mud?
Thank you,
Jeff
Thank you,
Jeff
MudSlinger
01-18-06, 03:29 AM
With setting type compound, Cold water increases working time, hot water makes it cure faster. All things given, you should have at least 60-120 minutes.
1 20# bag will make about 1/3 of a 5 gallon bucket worth. If you overmix it, it also will cure faster.
* If you are bucket mixing; put some in the bucket and then add water until the mix is like regular mud. After it sits for 5 minutes, you may notice it getting stiff. At that time, you can still add a little more water to thin it out. After about 10 or 15 minutes DO NOT add more water. If you are using "90", you should have plenty of time to fill one joist worth of "ditch".
Once it starts hardening do not "mix it" to make it thin again, it is done...
I use lots of 5 minute and 20 minute, usually nothing over 45 minute, as you do not do this often, I think 90 was a good choice you made.
I hope this helps answer your question.
1 20# bag will make about 1/3 of a 5 gallon bucket worth. If you overmix it, it also will cure faster.
* If you are bucket mixing; put some in the bucket and then add water until the mix is like regular mud. After it sits for 5 minutes, you may notice it getting stiff. At that time, you can still add a little more water to thin it out. After about 10 or 15 minutes DO NOT add more water. If you are using "90", you should have plenty of time to fill one joist worth of "ditch".
Once it starts hardening do not "mix it" to make it thin again, it is done...
I use lots of 5 minute and 20 minute, usually nothing over 45 minute, as you do not do this often, I think 90 was a good choice you made.
I hope this helps answer your question.
jaws
01-18-06, 08:25 AM
Thanks for the vote of confidence and the information. I will proceed with my my "ditch" repair. I will let you know the outcome.
Jeff
Jeff
jaws
01-19-06, 08:09 AM
I am using the blue lid for the rest of the room (it was recommended at place of purchase) I am getting some air bubbles when the mud dries, is there a remedy? Do I need to thin it out a bit?
Also I noticed some hair line cracks over one of the tape joints I assume I put it on too thick there. This is only the first coat, will the second coat cover this ok? Or do I need to fix this before I continue?
Thanks
Jeff
Also I noticed some hair line cracks over one of the tape joints I assume I put it on too thick there. This is only the first coat, will the second coat cover this ok? Or do I need to fix this before I continue?
Thanks
Jeff
IHI
01-19-06, 08:51 AM
We used to use the bucket stuff yrs ago, we'd start with green for intial tape burying and 2nd coat then finish with the blue for final coat for easier sanding/blending. Either way we'd add a lil water and thin it up a bit for easier coverage and made it easier to know it did'nt get applied to thick which would lead to sanding down prior to final coat.
Since have switched over to stuff in a box and even that gets a lil thinned out for application. Either way, those hair line cracks are normal since that stuff your using shrinks so bad. dont wory about it to much since you have at least 1 or 2 more coats to apply and it will fill in/cover thsoe areas. I do suggest on your last coat thinning it down a lil so when your applying it you can use your knife to float it ouot to perfection and thus requires minimal to zero sanding. It's easier to do it that way on final coat than sanding your arse off.
Since have switched over to stuff in a box and even that gets a lil thinned out for application. Either way, those hair line cracks are normal since that stuff your using shrinks so bad. dont wory about it to much since you have at least 1 or 2 more coats to apply and it will fill in/cover thsoe areas. I do suggest on your last coat thinning it down a lil so when your applying it you can use your knife to float it ouot to perfection and thus requires minimal to zero sanding. It's easier to do it that way on final coat than sanding your arse off.
marksr
01-19-06, 09:40 AM
I prefer to thin all coats of mud as it makes for easier application. But then I would rather apply an extra coat of mud than do much sanding :blah:
jaws
01-19-06, 10:12 AM
I don't mind putting an extra coat on if this will save me from the dreaded task of sanding drywall. I'll try and thin it out a bit. I read the consistence of mayonaise. I'll bet that is why I got the air bubles on the surface.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Thanks again,
Jeff
marksr
01-19-06, 01:57 PM
You will still need to sand but it is easier to add a little mud than to have to sand off too much mud.
jaws
01-19-06, 02:04 PM
Thanks Marksr,
I agree with your logic.
Thanks again,
Jeff
I agree with your logic.
Thanks again,
Jeff
jaws
01-23-06, 11:02 AM
Just wanted to give you an update. I picked up a couple of bags of the "90" type speed setting compound. I filled the void in on Saturday. I looked at it this morning and while this is just a fill coat (I will have the put the finishing touches on it with subsequent coats) I can honestly say the once present "ditch" is looking less noticable than previously. I will not put a level to it but rather my naked eye which caught it before. I think I can live with it. :thumbup:
To all you professionals who have given me your knowledge free of charge I say THANK YOU! Also your jobs are safe I will not be changing professions anytime soon. You have a tough pair of shoes to fill and they do not fit me. :D
Thanks again until next time,
Jeff
To all you professionals who have given me your knowledge free of charge I say THANK YOU! Also your jobs are safe I will not be changing professions anytime soon. You have a tough pair of shoes to fill and they do not fit me. :D
Thanks again until next time,
Jeff
IHI
01-23-06, 12:41 PM
Nothing wrong with putting a stright edge across it to make it perfect. Just a lil more time with quik set is all and a few more celaning of the knifes...you've come this far, dont quit now cuz once paint is one and final lighting in place it should still show up with shadowing effects and then you'll be mad you did'nt take that extra 30minutes total time to make it perfect.
jaws
01-25-06, 07:22 AM
Thanks IHI,
For the encouragement and the gently push in the right direction. I think I will forge ahead and go for the bonus round: "perfection". :D
It can only get better from here.
Again I will keep you all posted on the outcome, stay tuned!
Jeff
For the encouragement and the gently push in the right direction. I think I will forge ahead and go for the bonus round: "perfection". :D
It can only get better from here.
Again I will keep you all posted on the outcome, stay tuned!
Jeff
jaws
01-30-06, 08:53 AM
I put another coat of the speed setting compound on Saturday. This time I actually used a 36" piece of oak as a screed board then touched it up with a knife. The void is filled with no light of day showing between the level and the ceiling. :thumbup: I am happy with the outcome.
Thanks again to everyone,
Jeff
Thanks again to everyone,
Jeff
marksr
01-30-06, 05:22 PM
It is always nice to hear of a job well done :thumbup: Even if I wasn't the one that did it :D
MudSlinger
01-30-06, 06:35 PM
What do you mean Marksr?... We ALL did it... 10 supervisors and 1 person actually doing the work! :thumbup:
Congratulations Jaws!!!!
Congratulations Jaws!!!!
IHI
01-30-06, 06:40 PM
so does this mean we get (insert district here-county, city,state) pensions? :p
marksr
01-31-06, 07:50 AM
[QUOTE=MudSlinger]10 supervisors and 1 person actually doing the work! :thumbup:QUOTE]
Gee I didn't know this was a goverment job :D
Gee I didn't know this was a goverment job :D
jaws
01-31-06, 09:44 AM
Sorry budget cuts came up at this mornings meeting, You are all laid off, until we need you again. I of course am still employed doing the work of eleven people now by myself.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
marksr
01-31-06, 10:27 AM
Must not be a gov't job. They would have cut out the workers first :D