Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - How to screed a large area?

I am building a driveway that connects my lot to a 4-lane divided highway. It is 30' long, 12' wide. But where the driveway joins highway, it gets wider up to 52'. So it's roughly fan shaped.

How do I screed the 52' wide area? I suppose I need to place 2x4's in the middle. But how do I remove them and how do I fill the voids back?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Screed the 12" area between the forms. Go as far as you can that way. Then when you get to the end, turn the screed perpendicular to the forms and use the road as one screed point, and the flat wet concrete (called a "wet streak") as the other screed point. You just have one guy walk in the concrete holding his end of the screed and "floating" it on the level concrete that has already been screeded. Any small humps that may occur due to inexperience can be taken out with the bullfloat. That way, you have no boards to remove or voids to fill when you're done. That's how the pro's do it.

Pecos

if you're not comfortable with the above method you could drop in a treated 1x4 to break the pour and then use it as a screed point and leave it as an expansion joint

You will need to saw control joints in the 12' wide slab and where the radius begins. You will also need at least one in the 52' length (probably 3) of the entrance to eliminate random shrinkage cracks.

Since it is rare that property directly abuts the highway concrete (right of way provisions, etc.) you probably will be pouring on public property and will have to comply with their requirements for design, concrete type, thickness and control joints. The public authority must have this available or you might already have it. If I had property that I owned, I sure would want some say in what was poured on it.

If you choose to pour in different sections rather than using the preferred saw cuts, you could plan your pours to use the "fresh" adjacent panels near the radius as a height control after the forms are stripped (1 hour or so later).

good luck!

Dick

Thank you for the replies. My situation is exactly as Pecos said. This driveway starts where the asphalt ends and extends 30 feet toward my property. Basically, I am pouring concrete in the State right of way.

I have the permit but it doesn't say anything about expansion joint. My neighbor's driveway does not have any expansion joints, either. It must have been done in Pecos' method.

Here is what I still can't see. The concrete pad (driveway) must slope down toward my house at 6% for the first 10', then 2% for the rest. How do I adapt to this change of slope as far as screeding is concerned? Thanks.

make sure your form work is correct with your degree of slope . also where im from we dont screed off forms we use a laser set up to the currect depth and a small stick like object with another laser shooting to the tripod laser , we then float the concrete with our hand float until our laser lets us know were on grade then we go the length of the screedrod and do the same (this is called cutting a pad )and our pad is what we screed off of . this gives you true grade from what ever point your at in the concrete . im not nocking anyone elese methods because ive observed very knowledgeable post.I dont know what level experience you have so another way might be easier for you but this is how union finishers do it