Carpentry and Woodworking - how to identify load bearing walls?

Hi,

I have a smallish kitchen wall that divides the kitchen/living room. I want to cut a rectangle out of it to open up the rooms, but I want to determine whether this is a load bearing wall or not. It's all drywalled in, is there a standard method of identifying load bearing walls?

The wall you describe is generally a load bearing wall if it is located more in the center of the house. Determine the direction of the ceiling joists. If you have a common roof, they will be running in the direction of the slope. If the direction of the trusses run perpendicular to the wall, then it is most likely load bearing.
BUT, you can do this. You will have to build a support wall along the area you are working in, about a foot away with 2x4's on 16" centers running along the wall you are removing. Then you can take out the sheetrock (by hand) and do exploratory surgery. You will have to move any electrical outlets in the area, so be aware of this. That is why I said "by hand". Measure the width of the opening you desire , install king and jack studs (9 1/2" shorter than the king studs), make a header out of two 2x10's and a piece of plywood cut the length of the header x 9 1/2". The length of the header is the measurement between the two king studs. Sandwich the plywood between the 2x10's and nail them together. Now, remove the studs in the way of your opening by cutting through the nails at the top and bottom with a reciprocating saw. Note the looseness of the studs as you cut through them. Some settling may occur (1/16"), maybe not. If the studs pull out easily, that's good, the sub wall you built is doing its job. Install your new header across the top, resting it on the jack studs you put in place. Nail it in place and, if necessary drive a shim under the header at the jack stud to tighten it up against the top plate.
You now have a supporting header and can remove your sub wall. Re-sheetrock the mess you just made and finish it off.
If it is not load bearing, then forget everything above, cut your hole and watch the game.

thx for the feedback. This wall runs parallel to the roof trusses, it's 8 ft in length and joins the outside wall of the home. Then there is a 3 foot passage way into the living room, and anothe small wall 3ft in length. Let's see if I can draw it:

outside wall
|--------| inside wall plus direction of trusses
|--------|
|--------|
----- ----
wall in question

If I understand your description it sounds like it would not be a load bearing wall (as it is not perpendicular to the trusses).


Thanks

Man, you are on your way! In addition, you will be able to have a higher opening, since a load bearing header would take up nearly 10". I don't think I would take out the top plate, just for aesthetic reasons and for the fact there is a 2 x 8 on top of it to allow for the ceiling to be nailed to it. Use it as a sheetrocked beam to dress out and continue the wall from bottom to top, across, and back down again.
If you hurry, you won't miss the games!