Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - How to add a switch?

Hi everyone! Thanks for reading my post and offering advice!

I have a 65 year old home. The wiring is original copper in metal sheathing. I've been remodeling the livingroom, updating fixtures, replacing plaster and wood lath walls with sheetrock. Now that the sheetrock is up, I've found that I can't find any wall sconces that are switched at the light like the originals were, so I would like to wire one switch per pair of sconces. :thinker:

Here are some photos to illustrate the location and the way the wire runs through the room from memory.

http://www.equinerescue.com/images/wiring-001.png
http://www.equinerescue.com/images/wiring-002.png

It is my understanding the power comes into the room from the side porch and then travels clockwise through the room to L1 and L2 then to the entryway to power an interior light and exterior light, then comes back into the living room to power lights L3 and L4, and continues to the right to power a recepticle and go on to light the bathroom.

S1 controls the interior and exterior entry lights. S2 controls L3.

Goal:
To add two dimmer switches (either in location Snew or it's alternate or both locations depending on ease): One to control L1 and L2, and one to control L3 and L4.

S1 would then control the outside entry light and S2 would be converted to control the inside entry light.

Questions:
How do I create a switch loop for each pair of two lights in series without cutting off power somewhere else?

Is it easier to install one switch on the left and one switch on the right of the door to minimize the amount of drywall I'll be tearing out?

Any recommendations on the rewiring of the switches by the front door?

Thanks very much for your help!!
Lara

Didn't you take advantage of the opportunity to replace the old wiring when you had the walls open? You should have. The insulation on modern wire is much more fire-resistant than the old stuff, and the grounding wire in modern cable is a better ground than the old armored cable.

Your experience shows why I prefer to buy the fixtures before doing the remodeling. That way, you know exactly what you need.

I recommend that you use one switch for each light rather than one switch for each two lights. It will be much simpler this way. All you have to do is cut an opening for an old work switch box directly below each fixture, and run a switch loop down from the fixture to the switch. This will approximate what you had before with one switch per light. And no drywall damage will be necessary.

To get one switch to control two lights would probably require opening up the walls again. However, it looks like you haven't yet painted, so removing and replacing the drywall won't be that big of a deal if you really want each switch to control two lights.

*sigh* Alas, John, there are several things I didn't get to take advantage of before, during or after the walls were open. :o So, I'm stuck with what I've got and have to make the best of it.

I see where you are coming from on the ease of installing switches below every light. However; as you can see in the photos, the room is not very large, and I can't get away with having so many switches unconventionally placed and prominent.

What is above or below the room? You could drop down to basement or go up into attic and then come back up/down into fixture boxes. Xisting boxes should be easy enough to remove and replace with old work boxes. Removing the box gives you a hole to work through.

Thanks, Joed! I do have good access from the basement. Upstairs is tricky with the finished upper half story.

I was looking at the wires in the boxes, and noticed L1 and L2 each have three wires coming in and three going out. L3 has one wire coming in and one going out. L4 has two wires coming in and two going out. Does this jive with the idea that the power is coming from the side porch and clockwise through the room?

There is also the option to open up the other side of the wall in the adjacent bedroom (it's still plaster) and have access from there. More work and more time, but is this job sounding complicated enough to warrant it?

Thanks to all for your consideration and replies. I did decide to hire an electrician and I'm so glad I did, because even he ran into some obstacles.

Thanks again,
bionicfawn