Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - DSC 832 How Do I Add 2nd Key Pad

I have a DSC 832. Well I have all wireless sensors (Aprox 7 door window sensors and 2 wireless motions), 2 Wireless remotes, the Wireless reciever, 1 key pad, and the siren and strobe of course. I am adding a second key pad in my bedroom. How do I program it to the system? I will be able to run all my wires and hook the thing up (which is easy with the color coded wires), but just need to know how to program the system to recognize the keypad, and not screw anything else up in the mean time, as the system has been working flawlessly. If anyone can give me a step by step how to on this subject, it would be much appreciated. I am good with wiring, and electronics, but programming is a bit new to me. So when you respond, respond to me as if you were talking to a 18 year old kid(I hate to say that, but I am still learning the ins and outs of this system). I have been studying this system for a while, and am still a little shakey on some things, so please understand, as I have come a very long way from where I was when I installed this thing. Thanks guys. :) OH WAIT!!! One more thing. I am relocating the siren and strobe also. I do not have enough of the wire for it, so can I use the same wire that I use on the keypads (beings that I have a huge roll of that) and tape off the ends that are not being used? It is 22/4C CM/CL2 wire. Would that be ok? Thanks

What model is the new keypad? It makes a difference.

Sure use the 4 conductor wire. I recommend people doing a DIY install to just buy a big box of the 4 conductor, and just snip off the extra pairs or wrap the extras around the jacket of the cable.

Hey Ron,
Thats cool, at least I don't have to waste the wire since I have a ton of that kind. The key pad is the same as the other one (LCD5501). I hooked it up already and it works right off the bat. The only thing is that the time is screwed up on both of them because of DST, but I will figure out how to fix that. The other thing is my motions do not seem to want to work now (I guess they were working before, but I really never tried breaking into my home to test them). Maybe I am not waiting long enough before I walk in front of them. I arm it in Away, and wait about 1 and a half to 2 minutes and walk in front of them and get nothing, but when I try to take it off the wall, it goes off right away. Maybe I will try waiting 5 minutes or so, and see if that works. And as for the strobe, I just wire that into the same area that the siren is wired to, right(I took the wire out to rewire it to a different location and forget where it came out of)? Well, that should do it, Just got to set the time, find out about these motions, and wire the strobe back up.Thanks again. Hopefuly I will be ready to go tomorrow.

Unless you open and close an entry door, the motions automatically bypass. Wireless motions also have a battery saving feature that keeps them from reacting for a few minutes when there is recent movement.

Ok I see what you are saying. So if I arm it and want to try them, I should arm the system in away mode, open and close the door as if I had left the home, and then walk in front of the motions after a few minutes to just give them time to set? Ok, I will try that tomorrow. Cool, thanks Ron. And for the Strobe, that goes to the Bell terminals right? Same ones the siren is hooked to, correct? Thank you sir. A pleasure talking to you. Take care.

Yeah, the strobe is just another 12 volt device. There is a way to hook up the strobe to the PGM terminals but that's only if you are trying to get it to do some specific behaviors.

Yeah, the strobe is just another 12 volt device. There is a way to hook up the strobe to the PGM terminals but that's only if you are trying to get it to do some specific behaviors.

Ok thanks. What other behaviors can it do and what for/ Would it be worth trying it in the PGM to have extra features on my strobe? I mean I would like it (if at all possible, and not to complicated to do) to flash for a few seconds when arming in away mode, and if there are any other features that sound like they may be of use, to use some of them as well. But if it is too much trouble, I am not going to worry about it. Thanks Ron, you have been a big help again
:thumbup: Happy New Year guys, and thanks for all you do for us people who are just a little bit Technically impared....LOL. You really are great, and I am sure you do not get any recognition for what you do, so from me and the rest of the people you have helped over the years.....Thank you very much. We would all have had to either pay someone BIG $ to do it for us (which I do not have, that is why I use the site when I can and I am sure I speak for the rest also) or be stuck with nothing at all which would be a sad deal because especially when it comes to home security, these days you are NEVER too safe. So thank you all very much!

From the installation manual:
[10] Latched System Event (Strobe Output) The output will activate when any of the selected system events (alarms) occur on the system. In the armed state, the output will deactivate only once the system is disarmed.
If an alarm activates this output in the disarmed state, the output will deactivate if a user enters a valid access code while the Bell Cut-off timer is counting down. The output will also deactivate if someone arms the system
after the Bell Cut-off has expired. This output can be used to indicate that an alarm has occurred before entering the premises.
The PGM attributes for this option, programmed in Sections [141] to [154], differ from the standard selection of
attributes. Program which events will activate the output by selecting some or all of the following attributes:
[1] ...... Burglary (Delay, Instant, Interior, Stay/Away and 24 Hour Burglary Zones)
[2] ...... Fire (Fire Keys, Fire Zones)
[3] ...... Panic (Panic Keys and Panic Zones)
[4] ...... Medical (Auxiliary Keys, Medical and Emergency Zones)
[5] ...... Supervisory (Supervisory, Freezer and Water Zones)
[6] ...... Priority (Gas, Heat, Sprinkler and 24 Hour Latching Zones)
[7] ...... Holdup (Holdup zones)

That's just the stuff that's specific to strobe outputs, there are ways to use both PGM outputs and a couple of 12v relays to have that single device do multiple indications, but it is fairly complex in terms of the physical configuration of the relay wiring. There is a separate program entry for activation on away arming.

It's one of those things I could wire or layout in a schematic far easier than describing it.

Im very interested in the part where the light will show that the alarm has gone off before I enter the premisis. How do I manage to make that work, or is it already set to do that if the alarm is tripped? So If the alarm went off at 3pm and I was at work, and came home at 6pm, it would flash to show me that it has been set off by an intruder? Is it already set to do this, or do i need to program it to do this? This to me would be a lot more inmportant than having it flash when arming and disarming, beings that my wife would know something was wrong before entering the house if I was not with her, and not risk getting hurt by an intruder if she is alone, and contact the police. Thanks. :thumbup:

It's a programming thing (PGM is short for Programmable). It's not too complex, but you need to read over that section in your manual before you try it. Basically, those two terminals can be programmed to each do one specific action. I generally use them for things like a relay that releases an electric lock when the keypad is disarmed, or LEDs that indicate system status in remote locations. What you can do with it is mostly limited by your ability to work out the electrical connections. They have a limited current capacity, which is why I usually use them to trigger relays to do bigger things.

Thats cool Ron. Thanks a bunch, and I will read up on that section, and probably keep them for more important things then. Thanks again. :)