Flooring Tile - Tiling stand-up shower Q's
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Nomad
12-25-05, 11:03 PM
:confused: I have tiled my stand-up shower and now have some concerns! First denshield used as backer but no vapour barrier applied is this acceptable? Next Q, conventional floor tile used in shower, glazed with low gloss finish, with no water absorption on back side of tile, OK? Last, sanded grout used and later sealed, but when gets wet turns color to dark, should it do this as it seems to me an absorption of water into grout? Any answers appreciated and if you have any suggestions gladly accepted! Happy New Year. Nomad
Tilebri
12-26-05, 05:18 AM
Denseshield's face is the vapor barrier. You would not want poly or felt behind it. Some questions to answer and the incorrect response could come back to haunt you later as Denseshield is in my opinion, glorified greenboard, but installed properly, it does meet the requirements for tile backers in wet areas.
I'm assuming you have a tiled mid pan. Did you use a preslope mud layer under the liner? If you used a presloped mud layer, was the bottom of the DS kept off the liner by 3/4" or so and a sealant applied? Was there a cut edge exposing the core placed at the bottom of the pan? Did any of your fasteners break the facing by being driven too far as opposed to just dimpling the board? Did you do anything to waterproof any cuts or fastener penetrations? What did you use to set your tile? How did you construct the curb? Were any fasteners installed in the walls below a point 3" above the finished curb height? Did you use anything to ensure the subdrain weepholes remain clear of deck mud?
Most sealers are vapor emmissive, meaning water can pass, but staining agents are blocked to the best of your sealer's ability. It is not uncommon for sealed shower grout to allow water to pass through but then later to dry out. How you constructed the pan and what you used as a setting material can have a big impact on whether the lines dry out or how long they take to dry.
There's a lot for you to answer, but the answers will all help to determine the likelyhood of future issues. Please post back with a nice long response.
I'm assuming you have a tiled mid pan. Did you use a preslope mud layer under the liner? If you used a presloped mud layer, was the bottom of the DS kept off the liner by 3/4" or so and a sealant applied? Was there a cut edge exposing the core placed at the bottom of the pan? Did any of your fasteners break the facing by being driven too far as opposed to just dimpling the board? Did you do anything to waterproof any cuts or fastener penetrations? What did you use to set your tile? How did you construct the curb? Were any fasteners installed in the walls below a point 3" above the finished curb height? Did you use anything to ensure the subdrain weepholes remain clear of deck mud?
Most sealers are vapor emmissive, meaning water can pass, but staining agents are blocked to the best of your sealer's ability. It is not uncommon for sealed shower grout to allow water to pass through but then later to dry out. How you constructed the pan and what you used as a setting material can have a big impact on whether the lines dry out or how long they take to dry.
There's a lot for you to answer, but the answers will all help to determine the likelyhood of future issues. Please post back with a nice long response.
Nomad
12-26-05, 11:26 PM
:) Hello Tilebri, thankyou for response, as far as a floor in shower I installed a fiberglass high quality prefab receptor as previous shower had a tiled over concrete and rubber liner that failed and looked very dated, so I elected for a fiberglass corner entry ( glass door on two sides). It is a very small 32 by 32 inch shower. My concern is much less after reading your response and I hope the tile I used is suitable? The grout seam is not siliconed yet at wall/ pan location and I think the grout wicked water when I tried the shower out ( see if I plumbed it correct) and grout got wet in process, hense causing my concern. But if you say it is fine, Great! I used OMNI grip for an adhesive which states suitable for shower locations and I took them at their word. It was expensive adhesive(in comparison) and I am satisfied in its integrity. Q. is there some better sealer that I should be using in this location to limit water absorption or is this stain figher sealer suitable ?(TileLab,manufacturer, penetrating sealer) and can I put over this sealer? Nomad
Tilebri
12-27-05, 07:47 AM
Omnigrip is mastic and all of them claim to be suitable for shower and bath walls although that wording should be outlawed. There should be no grout between the bottim row of tile and the pan. You need a great seal there so as to protect any cut edge of Denshield at the bottom of the pan. Since you used mastic, for atleast the next year, dry the shower with a towel when you are done or use a shower squeegee, then dry along the tile/pan intersection with a towel. The mastic is still wet as you approach the center of the tile and will remain so if any water is allowed to get to it. Mastics will also reemulsify when exposed to prolonged moisture, so you need to keep it very very dry.
Nomad
12-27-05, 06:19 PM
Hello Tilebri, Well thanks for the good news, LOL. One last question before I sell the house, I will silicone the bottom and what happens after toweling for one year? Does the Omnigrip cure futher, I'm hoping. Good, I have no grout at pan/wall tile area and I will apply a clear silicone thoughly(only grout at vertical seams, but no further than tile). Should corners be siliconed also or leave with what happens to be a minimum grout seam as tiles are almost butted up against each other? Nomad :coffee: