Carpentry and Woodworking - Floor Moulding - Can I Glue or Must I Nail?
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Pipsisiwah
12-20-05, 09:44 PM
I have about 80 feet of floor moulding to install in my house, mostly in the bathrooms, some in the kitchen. 2 out of every 3 nails I hammer in bend. I don't do very good in preventing the hammer from banging the material instead of just the fastener. I don't want to power-in screws either.
And I'd rather not spend $100 on a brad nailer for my compressor.
Could I use something like Liquid Nails to fasten the moulding to the drywall? Like the original builders fastened all the bathroom mirrors to the drywall (grrrr!)
And I'd rather not spend $100 on a brad nailer for my compressor.
Could I use something like Liquid Nails to fasten the moulding to the drywall? Like the original builders fastened all the bathroom mirrors to the drywall (grrrr!)
Herm
12-20-05, 10:14 PM
The guy that built our house used adhesive to mount the mirrors to the walls too. I hate that.
You can use construction adhesive to mount the base molding the walls, but it's kind of a pain. If you're putting 1/4 round over the base molding, you'll want to nail that. If you ever change flooring, it will need to be removed.
If you already have a compressor, a brad or finish nailer might be nice to have around for future projects.
You can use construction adhesive to mount the base molding the walls, but it's kind of a pain. If you're putting 1/4 round over the base molding, you'll want to nail that. If you ever change flooring, it will need to be removed.
If you already have a compressor, a brad or finish nailer might be nice to have around for future projects.
chandler
12-20-05, 10:24 PM
I just replied to another of your posts, so I thought 2 more cents worth wouldn't hurt. You can get a fair brad nailer for about $75. This will be an investment for when your wife wants you to change the door molding. The way I do base is cut it to fit, use a sonar stud finder to find the first stud, mark it, nail it at the bottom and the top at that mark, extend my tape from that mark to the end of the wall, lock it, and set it at a stud marking on the tape. Then at every stud mark, pop a brad in the bottom and then the top of the base. That way you are nailing into studs and not into sheetrock. The reason I nail the bottom one first is to allow the top nail to pull the molding into true form with the wall, as the bottom will invaribly pull the top out of line.
Go for it! You may be 62, but you don't have to turn your card in until you are in your 80's.
The only difference between men and boys are the exhorbitant difference in the price of their toys.
Go for it! You may be 62, but you don't have to turn your card in until you are in your 80's.
The only difference between men and boys are the exhorbitant difference in the price of their toys.
IBM5081
12-21-05, 05:33 AM
Go ahead and spring for a cheap brad nailer. Consider renting one for a day. You don't want to have to redo the job when the glue gives way or it gets uneven and bows out.