Water Heaters - procedure ok

I'm thinking of replacing my water tank but living in MD instead of Mass raises some questions. I'm used to sweating all copper and draining to a celler trap.
I now have nothing as low as the tank's bib. I don't want to drain into the sump b/c it may clog the pump.
I was thinking of getting a 'dirty' pump and pumping to the drain that goes to the street which is about three feet above the floor.
I have cpvc that become -ugh- polybutylene gray shutoffs which become copper pipes. Would the ez way out be to kill ac, disconnect the wire, cut the copper, remove the drained tank, screw new t+p valve and cold water and hot water copper pipes, sweat the coppper pipes(or would that be a problem with the polybutylene the copper runs to),
Sorry about the long story but hopefully you get the idea?
Thank you P.S. I hope I don;t have to get into new tranition pieces-this whole rig is about 25 years old.

When you dont have floor drainage for the 150 psi T&P then you can put in a 125 psi pressure only valve somewhere on your hot water system that can drain to the exterior or to a fixture drain. That way, we hope, the 125 will kick off first during an emergency and not flood your basement. The sump pump would be a nice redundant feature.

If I were you I would remove all the gray poly. I don't trust that stuff farther than I can throw it. If you do decide to sweat, try not to sweat witin a foot of the plastic and keep a wet rag on the transition to keep it from overheating.

Those are good ideas-thanx. I'll do as many as I can.

The 125 psig relief valve is a good idea. I'm not sure why your sump pump would clog, but we don't have basements here in Texas. Lowe's has several nifty pumps, including ones with a float to kick on automatically at 10" or so. I use one (model R3S) in a 4' deep box in my backyard that drains a playground area.
I too would get rid of that nasty poly-butylene (had expensive fixes 10 years ago). You are on borrowed time I think. Could you run cpvc to the water heater and glue on a 3/4" threaded fitting (could swear I've bought this in the past), then use those copper or stainless steel flex hoses (12" to 24" are common)? Copper fittings with threaded connections are available too. Could use galvanized pipe if you need it more rigid. Good luck.

Everything you both have said is true. I lke the pump idea-I gave mine away when I moved from Fl. to MD. a few years ago.
I live in a townhouse built about 20 years ago. We moved in last year. There are units all over the place and they all seem to have the typical 'sub standard' type of features such as the polybutylene, t-11, etc. When I built my place in Mass. I did it all right so this bothers me but it would be like rebuilding an old man like me-be careful what you twist or try to fix-if you know what I mean.
I guess here they fix what breaks when it does.
Still, I'mm going to prevent some of the more flagrant things the best I can so thanx for all the good ideas.
We only live near D.C. b/c our grand daughter is here-everything is as costly as gold. You ought to see the places in Potomac, Chevy Chase and Bethesda. The closer to D.C., the more the price goes up. Plumber put a shut of in the bath-it leaked and when he came back he charged another $130-even put ten dollars for gas down and was working in the neighborhood.
Can't crawl around like I used to. Oh well, maybe I'll run for dog catcher to add to the pension. [grin].