Painting - painting stairs

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cilla2004
12-06-05, 11:09 AM
My plan is to remove the carpet from the basement stairs. I have fallen down these stairs for the last time, the carpet is slippery and I've just sprained my ankle. I've just measured the stairs and found the treads are 2 inches less than minimun required by today's standards. I think that uncarpeted stairs would be safer. The stairs are 50 years old with pine tread and risers if I go by what my neighbors have.

That being said is there any way to make painted stairs look better? I plan to use a medium brown floor paint on the risers and treads, but if anyone can suggest a way to make these look better (short of replacing all the treads with new oak)..maybe painting the risers a different color, or putting white lines on the edges of the tread, please advise.


Annette
12-06-05, 11:13 AM
i think that carpeted stairs would be safer & softer (and more attractive) than painted wood stairs. i can't imagine how or why the previous carpet could have been slippery except that maybe it was so old & worn out that it was really smooth. i'd find new indoor/outdoor berber type carpet in a light, easily seen color & GLUE it securely to the steps. you might also add some better lighting in the stairwell area, and maybe rebuild the steps to the modern specifications.

cilla2004
12-06-05, 12:56 PM
I agree that carpeting would look better, but I'm the one falling on these stairs and I think for me that painted would be safer. There are no other stairs I fall on, only these and it has been happening for 8 years, but I only injured myself for the first time. I finally measured the stairs and found the top stairs before the first landing have treads only 1 inch less than minimum standards - I never have a problem here(they are vinyl sheeting), but after turning the corner (now carpeted) the treads are either 1.5 or at the bottom, 2 inches less than the standard. And it is at the bottom I fall, either slip or my rubbersoled tennis shoes get caught in the carpet and I pitch into the wall at the bottom.

I would even consider a doing a stencil on the steps if there are stencils which are not "country style". Or even hand painting something, but I have no ideas.

Changing the pitch of the stairs is out of the question due to the load bearing wall which is at the end of the steps. (I'm sure this is the reason the steps were made the way they were.)


marksr
12-06-05, 01:14 PM
Years ago there was no code for building. Even today in some areas the code isn't inforced. I had one customer that desperately wanted a new set of stairs - to code so they could easily use the stairs as they were getting older. The carpenter came and measured and the only way new stairs would fit was to start them outside :eek:

After you remove the carpet you may find that with a little sanding you would be able to stain/poly the pine. This may make for a more attractive set of steps. Do you have a good user friendly handrail? Use of a handrail may help in keeping you safe on the stairs.

pushylady
12-09-05, 08:58 AM
I like the idea of painting the risers a different colour. I've done that before, and the stairs really pop out (in a good way!). Why not have some fun with the colours? I've also used antiskid additive on stairs, but they were outside, don't think it's such a good idea inside. I agree with the handrail suggestion.

cilla2004
12-09-05, 12:10 PM
I do have a handrail, but I guess I don't use it very effectively. Can't put a second handrail on as there is no wall there to put it on and whenever we are moving big things downstairs we just move it sideways.

Anyway, I just had an idea, not sure if it will work. I know I cannot put ceramic tile down on the stairs because the base is not thick enough, but I was thinking I could paint on tile. Buy some gray and brown floor paint and maybe use white acrylic and black acrylic artist's paint to add reality. And after I have painted the "tile", I could use masking tape and paint the "grout". I would use 3 tiles per step and about 2-3 inches in from the edge of the step I would paint a grout line parallel to the edge of the step, so it would look like I have those over the edge tiles. And then paint the whole thing with polyurathane. Of course I realize I will have to practice quite a bit and realize this will not be a one-day job. Or maybe I should paint the grout first and then paint the tiles. What do you think of this idea?

marksr
12-09-05, 04:52 PM
Alot would depend on how you want the faux tile to look. If you did the grout first you would need tape narrow enough to simulate the grout lines. You might consider ragging off one or more colors to help give the 'tile' depth.

joneq
12-09-05, 09:02 PM
If you are going to paint tile you should first prime, then paint the grout color, then tape over where you want the grout lines to show,then do the tile.

If you want to tile you may very well be able to. All depends on how the stairs are constructed.It would change the riser to tread ratio in a bad way though. so not a good idea imo.

As strange as it may seem I agree with Annette :cheshire: about the carpet being the best safest solution as long as they are stapled on right.

mjd2k
12-10-05, 09:42 AM
As you know, the reason you keep slipping is because the treads are too short so your foot is settling on the carpeted edge, thus the carpet becomes slippery.

I have slid many times on carpeted stairs but seldom on wood.

Painting will give you a solid edge for your foot to grab so thats an option.

Another thought may be to put aluminium (I can't pronounce it either) or wood stair nosing on each step.This will give you a solid edge for your foot and even extend the treads a tiny bit.

The problem with new carpeting is will it match whats at the bottom or top of the stairs? If your existing carpet is decent, you could probably just screw the nosing right over top and give it a try. If it doesn't work, then take them off and re-use or scrap if you want.

I think I would use a kanga-back carpet rather than underlay just to keep it fairly flat and stable but still have some cushioning.

Aluminim nosing is really cheap, about 12.00 cdn for 12 feet.

cilla2004
12-10-05, 03:04 PM
I think I want to do the painted tile. And Marksr made a good point about the grout needing to look lower than the tile, so I will first get my ankle better so I can walk without a cane, then remove the carpet, sand, paint Zinsser 123 primer then paint grout color, probably medium dark gray, over the entire step. Then measure and put thin tape (have to check art supply stores) over where the grout should be, making sure to add a slight curve at the corner of the tile. Then paint base tile color. Then paint second color and rag off. Then add maybe some more color in the gray brown tan range. Then remove the tape and this is where watching hours of "The painted house" on HGTV will pay off, I will go back in on the grout and add a dark gray shadow on two sides of the tile, freehand. Then paint a couple of coats of polyurathane to cover the entire step. Sounds like a plan! Thank you for all of your comments. I will post a picture when I finally get this done, (will be months).

joneq
12-10-05, 05:54 PM
Find out how to remove the tape BEFORE you try to remove it. On top of everything else the narrow tape will rip easy. With all you plan to do it will be on for a while,and since you will be doing stairs and will not be able to walk on it before each coat has fully cured you may run into problems.

You need a plan of attack that lays out not only what you are going to do, but more importantly how you will be able to do it. Stairs can be a problem.

marksr
12-11-05, 10:52 AM
You need a plan of attack that lays out not only what you are going to do, but more importantly how you will be able to do it. Stairs can be a problem.



This defenitly needs noting. Unless you have one of the large homes with multiple sets of stairs [per floor], you will defenitly need to work out a plan to either elimenate using the stairs until the project is over or some other plan that will prevent you from walking on uncured paint.

cilla2004
12-12-05, 09:55 AM
Thank you for all your comments, some things maybe I didn't consider. But as I recall paint should be dry in 4 hours, so after painting each coat, I should be able to step on it in soft shoes (maybe slippers) after 12 hours. And the only thing I need in the basement is the washing machine and all of my painting supplies, which I guess I could keep upstairs for the duration of the project.

As for the tape, it may be easier to just hand paint the tiles on top of the grout and then it will have a sort of hand made tile look. I would still use a measuring stick to get the place to paint the tiles. Although that does sound like more work.

I'm not sure how long it takes for polyurathane to dry, but that may take a bit longer, but still I don't see a problem as long as I paint the basement landing up to the outside landing so I don't get stuck in the basement and have to climb out a window.

Since we just finished re-doing the basement bathroom and laundry room, I am used to not using the basement bathroom (in progress) or the rec room, because it is the stageing area for everything.

joneq
12-12-05, 11:01 AM
Latex paint is dry to recoat in 4 hrs not to walk on. Oil is longer. Possibly do 1/2 of each step at a time.A paint pad (http://fauxsupply.com/brushes/padco_paint_pads.htm) on a short threaded pole would work. They have built in guides to keep it neat. You may be able to get all the base[grout]color down if you can work from the bottom up. then do 1/2 step at a time.

marksr
12-12-05, 11:46 AM
Socks would be better than slippers - less likely to have anything abrasive.
Polyurathane can usually handle light traffic after 12 hrs although longer is definetly better.

cilla2004
12-12-05, 05:37 PM
OK Socks to walk on my basement stairs (while I carefully hold onto the handrail). I had thought of dividing the steps in parts and painting that way, but I think it would look better to divide into 1/3 and 2/3 since I will be painting 12 inch tiles, 3 per step. I am still inclined to do it all at once so I don't prolong the project.

The paint pad looks interesting, I was wondering if I should paint with a paint brush or roller. But the roller would give a texture closer to glazed tile.

marksr
12-12-05, 05:57 PM
Do you have another way out of the basement?
It would be a lot easier to paint the steps going down than to try and reach down and paint the step below you on your way up.

joneq
12-12-05, 10:04 PM
Prolog the project and do 1/3 --2/3. solves a lot of problems.

mjd2k
12-12-05, 10:21 PM
Or
if you really need to use the stairs and you have the room to get it in there, "rent" a long 2x8, or use an ext ladder. You can figure out easily how to secure and float it. Don't get paint on it and you can take it back. Ext ladder is probably the best bet.

I've rented wood from HD before for this sort of thing. I told them what I was doing and they didn't mind.

cilla2004
12-13-05, 06:22 AM
You have all made good points which has gotten me to pondering again. I must say I did not understand the part about the 2x8 and extension ladder, but I've got another idea.

btw, there is a way out of the basement which involves getting out of a window about 4.5 feet off the ground 14"x30". (and probably removing the window because it is a tilt in window that opens about 1/2 way down)-- don't worry no one sleeps down there and in a fire I could pull that wire holding the window upright off of it's screw) Not what I want to do, but in a pinch, I could do it, although no matter where I get out I land on rose bushes, euonymus or some other garden plant.

New plan, incorporating your ideas.

1) paint entire stairs in primer. a)do risers all the way down and then treads all the way up.
2) do the same thing with the gray "grout".
3) paint all the risers with the first coat of 'tile' paint, going down.
4) paint every other tread with first coat of 'tile paint, going down.
5) let dry
6) repeat and do the other colors of tile on every other step, let dry etc.

marksr
12-13-05, 07:02 AM
Sounds like a plan. Wish you luck and be carefull :)

mjd2k
12-13-05, 12:22 PM
Sorry to babble. Not the first time I've done that.

I meant that if it was important for you to still use your stairs, you could get an extension ladder, extend it from the top to bottom of the stairs and use it as your deck to walk up or down the stairs while the paint dried. I've used my ladder for this sort of thing before, no problem.
The 2x8 was the same idea and you could set it on the ladder for a better foothold.

Looks like you have a plan so just keep going. Just throwing out an option for you that has worked for me.