Doors and Windows - interior window trim
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atibbs
12-06-05, 09:39 AM
A friend of mine had faux wood panel walls in his living room that he ripped out and then had re-sheetrocked. We're planning on replacing the trim around the windows next week, but a problem was just brought to my attention:
The window frame now sticks out about 1/8" to 1/2" from the now finished and painted walls. I assume that when originally installed, the folks just bent the wood panels to cover the gap. So what should I do to correct the situation when I put on new trim? I can't cut the window frame because I wouldn't be able to get a straight enough edge. The only thing I can think to do is somehow shim behind the trim, and then trim the gap between the wall and the new trim. But this'll be ugly I think.
To further complicate things, my friend wants to use mahagany rather than stock trim and keep it stained.
Any help at all would be much appreciated...
The window frame now sticks out about 1/8" to 1/2" from the now finished and painted walls. I assume that when originally installed, the folks just bent the wood panels to cover the gap. So what should I do to correct the situation when I put on new trim? I can't cut the window frame because I wouldn't be able to get a straight enough edge. The only thing I can think to do is somehow shim behind the trim, and then trim the gap between the wall and the new trim. But this'll be ugly I think.
To further complicate things, my friend wants to use mahagany rather than stock trim and keep it stained.
Any help at all would be much appreciated...
IHI
12-06-05, 11:50 AM
We run into this all the time with folks ordering stuff the wrong jamb thickness. We just take and install casing like normal so you can see exactly what thickness gap you have to fill behind casing and wall surface. Use like material and rip it to that thickness-we use 1x's exclusivly for this purpose since it's 3/4 wide it has some substance for the brads to go through at final pinning.
I always start with the sides first since it's easier to get a good fit and slide them behind the casing.
You have the right idea and once it's done it looks fine. Just liek anything else, 99% of people will NEVER know the difference unless you point it out.
I always start with the sides first since it's easier to get a good fit and slide them behind the casing.
You have the right idea and once it's done it looks fine. Just liek anything else, 99% of people will NEVER know the difference unless you point it out.
XSleeper
12-06-05, 03:58 PM
Its possible that the windows have a small extension jamb nailed onto the window, and that could be the part that is now sticking in too far. If that's the case, all you'd have to do is remove that extension jamb and run it through the table saw, cutting it down to the right size so that it is flush with the wall. It could then be nailed right back on where it once was.
If the part of the jamb that sticks in too far is not removable, you'd have to do something similar to what IHI mentioned. If you're using normal casing, you could also glue and pin an extension right onto the back side of the casing (outside edge) *before* you put the casing up. After you have the extension on the casing, then you would cut the miters. I've had to do that quite a bit on wide patio door jambs that stick in too far on 2x4 walls.
If the part of the jamb that sticks in too far is not removable, you'd have to do something similar to what IHI mentioned. If you're using normal casing, you could also glue and pin an extension right onto the back side of the casing (outside edge) *before* you put the casing up. After you have the extension on the casing, then you would cut the miters. I've had to do that quite a bit on wide patio door jambs that stick in too far on 2x4 walls.