Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Whirpool Dryer Not Heating
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Whirpool Dryer Not Heating
johncrocker
12-01-05, 02:33 PM
Whirpool model #LE5700XMN1, It works but does NOT heat at all. How do I determine what the problem is and where is the fuse located and description of it? No schematics on it.
Thanks
Thanks
ecman1
12-01-05, 04:48 PM
1. See if you have 220 at the recepticle.
2. If no, check the house fuses or circuit breakers to see if you have 220 there. If one fuse burns out, you can have the dryer still run -only without any heat.
3. If yes (220), then suspect a burned out element, or wire. If a rear coil element, pop the top of dryer and use a voltmeter to test the ends of the coils for continuity, and for 220, if you know how to do this sort of thing. If it's a rear bottom element, then you access the rear of the dryer to test the terminals at the element.
I have actually ran into dryers that are a fooler when there is still 110 heating the dryer element because the element broke in half and fell onto the metal inside to complete the 110 current (rather than 220), so that you get *some* heat, but not full (220) heat. I have ran into this more than once in my maintenance career.)
You also could have a primary wire off one of your 220 legs melted. This usually occurs near the connections to the element. I have made several such repairs.
Unplug the dryer and access the main terminal block at the rear and try tightening all the terminal screws (3 or 4, where the power cord joins in), and inspect.
2. If no, check the house fuses or circuit breakers to see if you have 220 there. If one fuse burns out, you can have the dryer still run -only without any heat.
3. If yes (220), then suspect a burned out element, or wire. If a rear coil element, pop the top of dryer and use a voltmeter to test the ends of the coils for continuity, and for 220, if you know how to do this sort of thing. If it's a rear bottom element, then you access the rear of the dryer to test the terminals at the element.
I have actually ran into dryers that are a fooler when there is still 110 heating the dryer element because the element broke in half and fell onto the metal inside to complete the 110 current (rather than 220), so that you get *some* heat, but not full (220) heat. I have ran into this more than once in my maintenance career.)
You also could have a primary wire off one of your 220 legs melted. This usually occurs near the connections to the element. I have made several such repairs.
Unplug the dryer and access the main terminal block at the rear and try tightening all the terminal screws (3 or 4, where the power cord joins in), and inspect.