Water Heaters - new water heater had tiny puddle from pressure relief valve

Hi all,

I replaced my electric water heater with my buddy yesterday. I'm a first timer and he had some experience.

GE smart water 40 gallon electric tank from home depot.
I installed yesterday morning, and fired her up, within a half hour I had hot water, no leaks and the install seemed successful.

I was doing laundry tonight, a day later, and I noticed a tiny amount, maybe a quarter cup of water in the pan the heater sits in. I checked the pipes and where were find, but I noticed dops on the pressure releife valve and side of heater where it sprayed out.

I was shocked. Any idea why this happened? Should I chekc the temp? I believe its at 120 farenheit. I have a feeling this happened a lot with the old water heater as there were rust stains everywhere (i assumed the water heater was leaking, being the new owner i decided to replace) Myabe my water pressure is too high?

oh yea, the tank is brand new, but it had a dent in the side of it when we took out of the box, i assumed this would be fine?

Any suggestions? Should I worry?

Thanks, Chris.

you have to put a expansion tank on the cold water side of your heater

Forum Monitors Note:
Reply edited. Quote removed only. Unneeded. Can read original question above without a quote in this reply.

please elaborate

Hello: Chris

Possible but not so likely there is a water inlet pressure problem. Or none so high as to cause the TP valve to leak. Possible not not likely. Also highly doubt the need for an expansion tank, if none existed prior. (IMO) Fixing a symptom is not solving the problem. Only masking the problem.

However, the TP valve is not stated as being new. Is it? If so, tiny leak may stop shortly once valve fully seats itself. Should not leak nor seat itself granted but some valves do stop leaking in short time spans after intial installation. Reason unknown but some do while others do not.

If it is possible to have a higher than normal inlet water pressue, contact the city or whomever supplies the water and have a pressure test done on the meter. Once that condition is verified to be okay and the TP valve stops leaking all should be fine. If not, replace TP valve.

The dent is also not likely to be of any concern. Most likely cosmetic to the external metal casing. All tanks are air pressure tested before final assembly. If tank itself is not leaking, not to worry about that dent.

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I think I got to agree with Handyman, if you are on city water, a relatively new house, don't already have an expansion tank, and show evidense of leaks with previous water heater.
Most city codes for water reaquire now adays a checkvalve at the water suppy into the house. When water heats, it expands. With your faucets off and this checkvalve at the incoming supply, there is nowhere for the water to expand, so pressure builds up until the releif valve works.
You can verify this yourself by getting a pressure gage, which is relatively cheap and can be bought at most hardware or big box stores, and put it on the tank drain valve. If the pressure goes over 160 psi after the water has been heated, there's the problem and a expansion tank will solve it. They are inexpensive and certainly a diy project.

I'm not sure what a TP is...

ALso, on the coldwater in pipe just below the shutoff valve, located in between the shutoff valve and water heater inlet, there is a device that has a black plastic know on it that threads up and down. THere are numbers engraved on the metalic pieces, not sure what they represent. THere are no indicators on the knob. I am wondering if this is a cheap water pressure reducer valve? I turned slighlty each way then decidced it was best to stop because I had no idea what I was doing and I wanted to take a showe in the morning before I damaged something.

Any suggestions?

As of now I have a pipe running the the side relase valve into a sump pump hole in the foundation next to the water heater. THis could quite possibly be a long term fix providing my leaks are small.

TP or TPR is short for Temperature and Pressuse Releif valve.
When municipal codes require the use of a check valve or sometimes called a backflow preventor, it is usually between the meter and the shut off valve.
What you described sounds like some kind of pressure adjusting valve but may also contain a check valve in it. If so, IMHO, an expansion tank will solve your leak.