Kitchen Gas Appliances - connecting a stove
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : connecting a stove
bsmt_dwellers
11-21-05, 03:02 AM
I'm replacing an older stove with one that is said to be about 3 yrs old. Unfortunately the connectors don't match up. I thought I could simply use the newer gas hose but the shutoff valve and the inlet to stove are of a different size. I will be going to the hardware store and i will bring the two different hoses and say hose 1 fits the stove and hose 2 fits to the shutoff. The shutoff looks old but it still works, as I have the stove disconnected and no gas smell. Do shutoff valves necessarily need to be replaced? do they wear out? I can shut off gas at the meter. Also, the old stove inlet was sideways while the new stove inlet faces out (to the wall)....since the stove has to go against the wall as close as possible is there some kind of connector i can buy so as to avoid the hose hitting the wall? One more question...is teflon tape ok as a sealer or must it be of the paste variety?
Thaks for any info
and yes I put a cap on the gaspipe until I get to this.
Thaks for any info
and yes I put a cap on the gaspipe until I get to this.
Sharp Advice
11-21-05, 05:23 AM
Hello: bsmt_dwellers. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.
Not uncommon to have to replace everything used to connect a new gas appliance. All parts from the shut off valve, including the shut off valve, need to be replaced with new parts. The old parts do not match up with the new parts and connot be combind.
Apply only oil or pipe thread compound to the threads, if needed or dersired. DO NOT use any pipe tape on connector threads. Only use pipe tape on pipe threads and only one wrapping around on the pipe threads. More is not better.
Reinstall the new connector exactly as you removed the prior flex. Do this by first threading the famale cap nut of the new flex connector onto the male adaptor on the appliance inlet pipe by hand turning the hex nut to avoid stripping threads.
At the same time while turning the hex nut, gently wiggle the flex tube until the cap nut is firmly seated hand tight onto the adaptor or shut off valve. Then carefully tighten the cap nut about 1/4 turn or until tightened securely.
DO NOT over tighten either cap nut on the ends of any flex gas tubing. Doing so can strip the threads or damage the flare funnel inside the flex. Doing so will destroy the threads and leaks will develope.
Mix up a cupful of slightly extra soapy water soap solution using common dish washing liquid soap or leak detection soap per directions. Apply soap to both ends of the connector with the gas turned on. Watch for bubbles.
Applying the soapy water solution can be done with an ordinary fine bristled paint brush, sponge or soaking wet paper towel.
Allow several minutes to pass while watching closely. Should tiny bubbles form or appear anywhere, there is a leak which will needed to be corrected. If no bubbles are found, job completed successfully.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Web Sites Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
Not uncommon to have to replace everything used to connect a new gas appliance. All parts from the shut off valve, including the shut off valve, need to be replaced with new parts. The old parts do not match up with the new parts and connot be combind.
Apply only oil or pipe thread compound to the threads, if needed or dersired. DO NOT use any pipe tape on connector threads. Only use pipe tape on pipe threads and only one wrapping around on the pipe threads. More is not better.
Reinstall the new connector exactly as you removed the prior flex. Do this by first threading the famale cap nut of the new flex connector onto the male adaptor on the appliance inlet pipe by hand turning the hex nut to avoid stripping threads.
At the same time while turning the hex nut, gently wiggle the flex tube until the cap nut is firmly seated hand tight onto the adaptor or shut off valve. Then carefully tighten the cap nut about 1/4 turn or until tightened securely.
DO NOT over tighten either cap nut on the ends of any flex gas tubing. Doing so can strip the threads or damage the flare funnel inside the flex. Doing so will destroy the threads and leaks will develope.
Mix up a cupful of slightly extra soapy water soap solution using common dish washing liquid soap or leak detection soap per directions. Apply soap to both ends of the connector with the gas turned on. Watch for bubbles.
Applying the soapy water solution can be done with an ordinary fine bristled paint brush, sponge or soaking wet paper towel.
Allow several minutes to pass while watching closely. Should tiny bubbles form or appear anywhere, there is a leak which will needed to be corrected. If no bubbles are found, job completed successfully.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Web Sites Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
bsmt_dwellers
11-23-05, 04:55 AM
thx sharp....everything looks good....however I noticed that one burner doesn't ignite as fast as the others (electric igniter click click ) The result is that gas builds and we get a big poof flame-up...sorry if I'm not explaining but I know you know what I mean. Could this be simple blockage or do these igniters wear out. Even though stove is 3 yrs old...it was hardly used (really, the bachelor workaholic rarely used it) Any thoughts?
Sharp Advice
11-23-05, 07:20 AM
Hello: bsmt_dwellers
The spark ignition system may be too weak to ignite the burners. Since the condition only effects one burner, the clearance distance between the sparking element could be incorrect. The sparker could be dirty, the ignition ports could be clogged up or restricted as well as the burner heads.
Ignition ports are tiny holes up one side of the burner head. If these holes are restricted, they must be cleared out. Cleaning can be accomplished using sewing straight pin needle. DO NOT enlarge the ignition holes. Doing so will have adverse burner lighting effects.
Burner heads where the flames will not burn completely around the entire circumference of the burner head, the holes which do not have flames are clogged up and need cleaning.
To clean the sparkers, use an old tooth brush or pipe cleaner. DO NOT attempt to bend any tabs if the sparkers have them. The part is very brittle and will crack the ceramic insulator and or the tip will break off.
In cases of extremely dirty burner heads, soaking the burners in very hot water with plenty of dissolved automatic dishwasher detergent for several hours, rinsing and drying or a combination of both methods for heavily soiled burners.
Try lighting the burner with a match. If the burner fails to lite because there isn't any gas coming out of the burner head, there may be a restriction in the burner tube or the brass orifice.
If the above is the case, clear the burner tube. If the brass orifice is clogged up, clear it with a pin but do not remove it, if possible nor enlarge the openings.
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.
The spark ignition system may be too weak to ignite the burners. Since the condition only effects one burner, the clearance distance between the sparking element could be incorrect. The sparker could be dirty, the ignition ports could be clogged up or restricted as well as the burner heads.
Ignition ports are tiny holes up one side of the burner head. If these holes are restricted, they must be cleared out. Cleaning can be accomplished using sewing straight pin needle. DO NOT enlarge the ignition holes. Doing so will have adverse burner lighting effects.
Burner heads where the flames will not burn completely around the entire circumference of the burner head, the holes which do not have flames are clogged up and need cleaning.
To clean the sparkers, use an old tooth brush or pipe cleaner. DO NOT attempt to bend any tabs if the sparkers have them. The part is very brittle and will crack the ceramic insulator and or the tip will break off.
In cases of extremely dirty burner heads, soaking the burners in very hot water with plenty of dissolved automatic dishwasher detergent for several hours, rinsing and drying or a combination of both methods for heavily soiled burners.
Try lighting the burner with a match. If the burner fails to lite because there isn't any gas coming out of the burner head, there may be a restriction in the burner tube or the brass orifice.
If the above is the case, clear the burner tube. If the brass orifice is clogged up, clear it with a pin but do not remove it, if possible nor enlarge the openings.
Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.