Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Subfloors??? Reuse base boards?
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teelbee
11-19-05, 07:01 PM
Hi, flooring newbie here.
I'm in the process of collecting bids to remove the existing flooring (carpet/ceramic tile) and install solid maple flooring. The project is about 625 sqft: the main floor in a 3-level, 30-year old condo (full basement below the main floor).
So far, I'm getting conflicting input about whether the existing plywood subfloor needs to be "fixed" before laying the new flooring. There are definitely some dips in the current flooring, the worst I've noticed one is about 7/16" over a 10-ft span.
The difference in price amoung 4 contractors is about $6k.
*One guy says, "maybe needs all new plywood, won't know until after tearout." (highest bid)
*Lowes said a nail in floor would be fine, no comments about addressing the unevenness. (2nd highest bid)
*Another says, "probably felt or filler of some kind to pad up the low spots, won't know until after tearout" .. very vague about the filler (2nd to low bid)
*Another contractor said no fixing needed, not even carpenters felt - just know the new floor will also dip a bit - typical in older buildings. (low bid)
Also, two of the contractors say they can remove and replace the existing 6" wooden baseboard - no problem; others say that all new baseboards and quarter rounds are needed, the old ones will never look right after reattachment.
Geez... How's a girl to know??? :confused:
So, I'm confused. I'm on a tight budget, and things don't need to be "perfect". Only the 2 low bids are within my reach. But I wouldn't want to end up with major shortcoming with this project due to lack of funds. Much as I'd hate to give up my dream of wooden flooring, I'd be better off with a good tile floor than a poor wooden one.
To sum up,
Would it be a mistake to not address the dips?
Does removing/re-using the existing baseboard sound feasible?
I'm in the process of collecting bids to remove the existing flooring (carpet/ceramic tile) and install solid maple flooring. The project is about 625 sqft: the main floor in a 3-level, 30-year old condo (full basement below the main floor).
So far, I'm getting conflicting input about whether the existing plywood subfloor needs to be "fixed" before laying the new flooring. There are definitely some dips in the current flooring, the worst I've noticed one is about 7/16" over a 10-ft span.
The difference in price amoung 4 contractors is about $6k.
*One guy says, "maybe needs all new plywood, won't know until after tearout." (highest bid)
*Lowes said a nail in floor would be fine, no comments about addressing the unevenness. (2nd highest bid)
*Another says, "probably felt or filler of some kind to pad up the low spots, won't know until after tearout" .. very vague about the filler (2nd to low bid)
*Another contractor said no fixing needed, not even carpenters felt - just know the new floor will also dip a bit - typical in older buildings. (low bid)
Also, two of the contractors say they can remove and replace the existing 6" wooden baseboard - no problem; others say that all new baseboards and quarter rounds are needed, the old ones will never look right after reattachment.
Geez... How's a girl to know??? :confused:
So, I'm confused. I'm on a tight budget, and things don't need to be "perfect". Only the 2 low bids are within my reach. But I wouldn't want to end up with major shortcoming with this project due to lack of funds. Much as I'd hate to give up my dream of wooden flooring, I'd be better off with a good tile floor than a poor wooden one.
To sum up,
Would it be a mistake to not address the dips?
Does removing/re-using the existing baseboard sound feasible?
Daniel Wachtel
11-20-05, 06:11 AM
The second low bid offers to resolve your floor issue with a proven method.
I'd leave the base up and add a shoe moulding.
I'd leave the base up and add a shoe moulding.
Carpets Done Wright
11-20-05, 06:13 AM
It would be a mistake, if someone didn't at least try to adress the dips. Not only will it make the floor roll, it will cause squeaks where the flooring is not tight against the subfloor, from bridging across a hump.
If it is gradual it may not be as much of a concern as a peaked subfloor seam.
I could reuse your baseboard, if I could get it all off without breaking it. Sometimes no matter what you do, it snaps. You have to take your time and go slow when removing it. Which makes my price for removal, a little higher then others that want to fly through the job.
If it is gradual it may not be as much of a concern as a peaked subfloor seam.
I could reuse your baseboard, if I could get it all off without breaking it. Sometimes no matter what you do, it snaps. You have to take your time and go slow when removing it. Which makes my price for removal, a little higher then others that want to fly through the job.
teelbee
11-20-05, 05:19 PM
It would be a mistake, if someone didn't at least try to adress the dips. Not only will it make the floor roll, it will cause squeaks where the flooring is not tight against the subfloor, from bridging across a hump.
If it is gradual it may not be as much of a concern as a peaked subfloor seam.Ah... hmm... Well, the dips are a bit like troughs that run the "longway", same direction as the floor joists. Because of that one rep said to lay the floor crosswise to the floor joists for greater strengh/stability, while another said to lay it longwise and let it follow the direction of the joists.
I could reuse your baseboard, if I could get it all off without breaking it. Sometimes no matter what you do, it snaps. You have to take your time and go slow when removing it. Which makes my price for removal, a little higher then others that want to fly through the job.Okay - I found a little corner of baseboard that's exposed under a kitchen cabinet and it looks like a manufactured wood product, not pinewood. Does that make it less likely to be reuseable?
~~~tlb
If it is gradual it may not be as much of a concern as a peaked subfloor seam.Ah... hmm... Well, the dips are a bit like troughs that run the "longway", same direction as the floor joists. Because of that one rep said to lay the floor crosswise to the floor joists for greater strengh/stability, while another said to lay it longwise and let it follow the direction of the joists.
I could reuse your baseboard, if I could get it all off without breaking it. Sometimes no matter what you do, it snaps. You have to take your time and go slow when removing it. Which makes my price for removal, a little higher then others that want to fly through the job.Okay - I found a little corner of baseboard that's exposed under a kitchen cabinet and it looks like a manufactured wood product, not pinewood. Does that make it less likely to be reuseable?
~~~tlb
teelbee
11-20-05, 05:23 PM
The second low bid offers to resolve your floor issue with a proven method.
I'd leave the base up and add a shoe moulding.Oh, I see. Well why not? I'll go back as ask the contractors if they can get the tile up without removing the baseboard, and then cover any chips with the 1/4 round.
I went to a lumberstore to see what baseboards cost... AIYAIAI!!! $4 -$6/ft. for 5-6" wide boards in "MDF". Sheesh! no wonder some of the bids are so high.
~~~tlb
I'd leave the base up and add a shoe moulding.Oh, I see. Well why not? I'll go back as ask the contractors if they can get the tile up without removing the baseboard, and then cover any chips with the 1/4 round.
I went to a lumberstore to see what baseboards cost... AIYAIAI!!! $4 -$6/ft. for 5-6" wide boards in "MDF". Sheesh! no wonder some of the bids are so high.
~~~tlb