Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Stucco! More Questions on patching.
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DykeItYourself
11-12-05, 08:57 PM
:thinker: Dick, Thanks for the info. Project needs are clearer and seems do-able. My dad always called it 'cinder block', 'cinder', or just 'block'; I never heard it called 'cement block' before. What's the difference in composition and use?
Beyond that, yes the bad spots come away cleanly. The block and morter look brand new under the stucco we remove. The stucco around the bad areas is stuck tightly and doesn't want to budge. The paint does come off the stucco fairly easily with a paint scraper in smaller areas [24" high & 60 feet long]. I'm not going to think about the 9 foot high section in the back where the basement opens out onto the lower grade. That can wait until next summer.
If I undersand you correctly, removing the wrong type of paint [oil base, smothering], then patching, and painting both the new patches and old stucco with a laytex [H2O base, breathing] paint will keep some of this trapped moisture damage from happening again any time soon. Right?
I've 'thunked' all 60 feet of the stucco in the front of the house, but used the wooden handle of my scaper to find the 'ripe' spots. I call 'em that because they sound like a ripe watermellon when thunked - deep, resonate, hollow sound, instead of the shallow, flat, solid sound of tightly bonded stucco.
I'm happy to say there are only 4 larger areas [12" x 12"] in the obvious places; two corners, the area by the stairs, and the area next to and below the outside H2O faucet [fixed the source of that just by using new hose washers every spring]. There is also a smattering of 3-6" spots along the front foundation.
I believe patching is the way to go in this sittuation. Removing all the stucco seems unnecessary.I will check out the additive to increase adhesion of the stucco patch. Ain't technology grand!
As to paint, do you have anything in mind that works well in our high humidity location? Suggestions gratefully accepted.
About determining frost heave [we can get long streches of winter temps in the teens followed by a week-long warm-up] vrs settling as a source of the cracks, unfortunately, all the basement is finished except the utility room, and it is hard to see much of anything in the corner where the large exterior crack is because that is exactly were all the power, cable and phone wires enter the house. That mess is another story!
We have scaled back to only dealing with the front patch and paint in the next 4 days [55 - 65F daytime and 35-45F at night] because it is the lowest below grade and presents the greatest H2O problem. The sides and rear can wait 'til summer.
Thanks again for all you info.
Zuzan
:cool:
Beyond that, yes the bad spots come away cleanly. The block and morter look brand new under the stucco we remove. The stucco around the bad areas is stuck tightly and doesn't want to budge. The paint does come off the stucco fairly easily with a paint scraper in smaller areas [24" high & 60 feet long]. I'm not going to think about the 9 foot high section in the back where the basement opens out onto the lower grade. That can wait until next summer.
If I undersand you correctly, removing the wrong type of paint [oil base, smothering], then patching, and painting both the new patches and old stucco with a laytex [H2O base, breathing] paint will keep some of this trapped moisture damage from happening again any time soon. Right?
I've 'thunked' all 60 feet of the stucco in the front of the house, but used the wooden handle of my scaper to find the 'ripe' spots. I call 'em that because they sound like a ripe watermellon when thunked - deep, resonate, hollow sound, instead of the shallow, flat, solid sound of tightly bonded stucco.
I'm happy to say there are only 4 larger areas [12" x 12"] in the obvious places; two corners, the area by the stairs, and the area next to and below the outside H2O faucet [fixed the source of that just by using new hose washers every spring]. There is also a smattering of 3-6" spots along the front foundation.
I believe patching is the way to go in this sittuation. Removing all the stucco seems unnecessary.I will check out the additive to increase adhesion of the stucco patch. Ain't technology grand!
As to paint, do you have anything in mind that works well in our high humidity location? Suggestions gratefully accepted.
About determining frost heave [we can get long streches of winter temps in the teens followed by a week-long warm-up] vrs settling as a source of the cracks, unfortunately, all the basement is finished except the utility room, and it is hard to see much of anything in the corner where the large exterior crack is because that is exactly were all the power, cable and phone wires enter the house. That mess is another story!
We have scaled back to only dealing with the front patch and paint in the next 4 days [55 - 65F daytime and 35-45F at night] because it is the lowest below grade and presents the greatest H2O problem. The sides and rear can wait 'til summer.
Thanks again for all you info.
Zuzan
:cool: