Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - governor settings

I want to get more speed out of my lawn mower and i want to no how to change the governor to get higher rpms could allowing high rpms cause my mower to blow up

Yeah....

Not literally exploding though. We use the term "blow up" pretty loosly. When you ungovern the motor, you risk failure because it isnt built for the higher RPMS. Usually the worst way the motor will fail is sticking the connecting rod through the block. Never seen it done but Ive heard about it. The more common failure will be simply breaking the connecting rod or siezing the piston. Scoring of the crank pin and wrist pin is also a major possibility, due to lack of luberication. If its an overhead valve engine, you mgiht risk valve float (depending on how high the RPMS are) and if they are high enough (unlikely) they could hit the top of the piston, bending or breaking the valve.

Why would you want to increase your lawnmower speed? The blade is designed to cut the best at full throttle, thats what they engineered it for, no sense is going any higher.

Jim

done it to a 3.5 briggs......loads of power, though it drank gas..... i would only do it to a mower you don't want anymore. not only will the engine wear out faster, you do risk connecting rod failure, or pin failure, such as that, pin seperates from piston. you do risk the engine also literally grenading. just keep the blade sharp, and don't go to fast in high or thick grass. they are designed for 3600rpm, that only. if you want more power, move up in horse power.

thats wut i needed to no

never want to get too much power in a motor. as you use a lawn mower the cross joint (or vcc bearing) will wear away, exspecually in wet grass, causing slippage and possibly a blade tearing off or even the whole thing will slip off. the chances increase with more power that the vcc was made for.

cross joint? unless the blade was unbalanced, the bearings would be fine..... the blade adapter would be fine if the blade was put on to recommended specs. only real thing you risk is throwing a connecting rod by pulling more rpms that or tearing the pin out of the piston, then what the connecting rod was designed, 3600rpm that is....briggs engines can take alot more then tecumsehs stock... even run one of mine over 4,000 just because i can, don't care, it was free. (4hp max series briggs, long been discontinued)

I dont no much about mechanics and stuff so wut exactly does the "conecting rod" conect to.

i'm guessing this is a 4 cycle engine? uses engine oil? like briggs perhaps, well in a four cycle, pistion goes up and down, up and down.....you have the four cycles, intake (piston going down, intake valve open bringing fuel in) compression( piston going up compressing the air and fuel mixture, intake valve closes) power stroke( pushes piston down generating power from that inclosed explosion of gas) the exhaust stroke (piston goes back up, exhaust valve opens letting spent gases out) the connecting rod is the important part, its connected to the piston, makes all that power turn the crank, which then turns the blade. the rod is designed for 3600 rpm at the crank, that piston and rod is throwing around serious force, too much and snap........

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connecting_rod

heres a little more on it if you want. :thumbup: