Walls and Ceilings - Holes in sheetrock
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rkoudelka
11-09-05, 12:58 PM
When putting up my ceiling sheetrock, I used a jack. The ceiling is sloped and the rock was shifting alot as I was getting it into placce. To stop it from shifting, I drove about 4 hefty nails through the rock into my joists.
In those spots the sheetrock ripped a bit and I have a few holes. No big deal but Im not sure if I should tape and spackle them, or just spackle them as if they are big nail holes.
They range from about 2 to 4 inches in diameter - they are roughly circles. They dont go all the way through because there is a joist behind them. so its not a complete hole, its moe like a chuck is cooped out.
How do I handle this... tape or just mud?
In those spots the sheetrock ripped a bit and I have a few holes. No big deal but Im not sure if I should tape and spackle them, or just spackle them as if they are big nail holes.
They range from about 2 to 4 inches in diameter - they are roughly circles. They dont go all the way through because there is a joist behind them. so its not a complete hole, its moe like a chuck is cooped out.
How do I handle this... tape or just mud?
mitch17
11-09-05, 02:19 PM
If the paper is intact on the rock, you can just spackle or mud. If the paper is gone, prime it first with Gardz from Zinsser and then mud.
coops28
11-09-05, 03:16 PM
You don't have to prime it with anything let alone gardz. Gardz is for severly torn drywall paper. Cut away the loose material. fill with mud. Let dry. tape.
mitch17
11-09-05, 03:33 PM
Coops:
My understanding was that any time the paper was torn and you were looking at gypsum, you needed to use gardz to get the mud to stick. Apparently that's not totally correct?
My understanding was that any time the paper was torn and you were looking at gypsum, you needed to use gardz to get the mud to stick. Apparently that's not totally correct?
marksr
11-09-05, 07:22 PM
J.M.C.
The primer isn't so much to make the mud stick as it is to keep the moisture from the mud causing problems with the gypsum. Since this isn't a normal damaged rock repair [like from paper stripping] it doesn't apply.
The primer isn't so much to make the mud stick as it is to keep the moisture from the mud causing problems with the gypsum. Since this isn't a normal damaged rock repair [like from paper stripping] it doesn't apply.
rkoudelka
11-09-05, 11:20 PM
ok, I have three more questions then:
1) The spackle wontstick well to the gypsum? It stickes better to the paper?
2) I have read alot of times that when you have big spaces to mud first, let dry, then tape and mud as normal. Why is that? I mean, it seems that if you have a bg gap and you fill with mud and tape at the same time it would be just as good. Can someone explain why this is not the case?
3) So , in my situation, to be clear I do the following. a) cut away lose junk b) fill hole with mud and let dry c) tape and mud as if it were a seam. Is that right?
1) The spackle wontstick well to the gypsum? It stickes better to the paper?
2) I have read alot of times that when you have big spaces to mud first, let dry, then tape and mud as normal. Why is that? I mean, it seems that if you have a bg gap and you fill with mud and tape at the same time it would be just as good. Can someone explain why this is not the case?
3) So , in my situation, to be clear I do the following. a) cut away lose junk b) fill hole with mud and let dry c) tape and mud as if it were a seam. Is that right?
marksr
11-10-05, 07:37 AM
#1 Spackling and joint compound will stick to gypsum but the moisture in the mud can cause problems.
#2 The reason for prefilling and letting it dries is if you immediately tape the weight of all the mud in the gap will often push out the tape resulting in a hump you can't get rid of without cutting it out and starting over.
#3 Yep, that should do it.
#2 The reason for prefilling and letting it dries is if you immediately tape the weight of all the mud in the gap will often push out the tape resulting in a hump you can't get rid of without cutting it out and starting over.
#3 Yep, that should do it.
joneq
11-10-05, 01:32 PM
Get some of this (http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/jsearch/product.jsp?pn=106690) stuff. No priming required. BTW use Bin shellac based primer sealer in the spray can when moisture will be a problem. Guardz is for large areas ans a drag to apply. It is always better to be safe than sorry. Stuff this stuff in the dent with your finger[aids adhesion] then use a spackle knife to add more and smooth it out. The finger is just something I do. It has great adhesion and is not too wet. You need to mix it thoroughly [I use a butter knife or 2 paint sticks]
This stuff is a great patching material. Although you can paint it fairly quickly I would wait till it dries hard-1 hr or so
This stuff is a great patching material. Although you can paint it fairly quickly I would wait till it dries hard-1 hr or so
MudSlinger
11-13-05, 05:05 AM
ok, I have three more questions then:
1) The spackle wontstick well to the gypsum? It stickes better to the paper?
2) I have read alot of times that when you have big spaces to mud first, let dry, then tape and mud as normal. Why is that? I mean, it seems that if you have a bg gap and you fill with mud and tape at the same time it would be just as good. Can someone explain why this is not the case?
3) So , in my situation, to be clear I do the following. a) cut away lose junk b) fill hole with mud and let dry c) tape and mud as if it were a seam. Is that right?
1. Joint compound does stick to gypsum, just as well as paper.
2. If you do not prefill large gaps, the joint compound will sink the tape, make bumps, and a big mess. Joint compound dehydrates over time. if it is put on thick, you may think the hole is fixed - until you paint it ... and then find out the stuff behind it is still wet.
I use Easy-Sand (a curing type compound) for filling large holes, gaps, etc. before breaking out the "regular" mud.
3. If you use any mud on loose paper it will peel, bubble, and never be smooth.
1) The spackle wontstick well to the gypsum? It stickes better to the paper?
2) I have read alot of times that when you have big spaces to mud first, let dry, then tape and mud as normal. Why is that? I mean, it seems that if you have a bg gap and you fill with mud and tape at the same time it would be just as good. Can someone explain why this is not the case?
3) So , in my situation, to be clear I do the following. a) cut away lose junk b) fill hole with mud and let dry c) tape and mud as if it were a seam. Is that right?
1. Joint compound does stick to gypsum, just as well as paper.
2. If you do not prefill large gaps, the joint compound will sink the tape, make bumps, and a big mess. Joint compound dehydrates over time. if it is put on thick, you may think the hole is fixed - until you paint it ... and then find out the stuff behind it is still wet.
I use Easy-Sand (a curing type compound) for filling large holes, gaps, etc. before breaking out the "regular" mud.
3. If you use any mud on loose paper it will peel, bubble, and never be smooth.