Water Heaters - Water heater installation.

Dear Experts:

I have a few short questions on a gas water heater installation.

1. I decided to use flexible pipes s it better to use flexible water pipes of spiral copper or covered by stainless steel wires? The latter look stronger to an amateur.

2. In addition to dielectric nipples provided by the tank manufacturers, do I have to install dielectric unions to insulate the steel of the tank itself from copper water pipes?

3. The flue goes through a brick wall to a chimney. Which compound shall I use to seal the flue in the brick wall hole?

Hopefully, that's it.

Thanks,

Learner

I spoke to a guy who said that if the tank is covered with a fiberglass from inside, it does not need dielectric connectors, since it is already insulated. Once the water gets under insulation, the tank is gone in few months.

OK, but why do they still have two sacrifice electrodes there?

2. In addition to dielectric nipples provided by the tank manufacturers, do I have to install dielectric unions to insulate the steel of the tank itself from copper water pipes?

Just one set of dielectric will do you here one on the cold and one on the hot.

3. The flue goes through a brick wall to a chimney. Which compound shall I use to seal the flue in the brick wall hole

We just use a 50/50 mix sand and cement

ED ;)

Dear Ed Imeduc:

Many thanks for your answer.

Over the weekend I installed the heater with flexible pipes. I am glad that I used flexible since it started to leak around the outlet nipple, at the connection with the tank. I tried to tighten the nipple without disassembling, and it leaked more. Than I removed the flexible pipe, took everything apart and retightened. It stopped leaking but in an hour I saw a tablespoon of water in the hot water nipple well which I attributed to the pipe sweating. I fired the tank up, and it gives me few tablespoons of water a day in that place. I cannot catch at what time it happens, but when I come, it is there. It is sitting besides a gas stove, but I guess, the hot water pipe could not sweat.

My questions are:
Can I use 24' pipe wrench and all my strength to tighten the nipple as much as I can?

Shall I use only one turn of teflon instead of recommended 2-3?

Can I use pipe joint compound instead? I hope that it would not clog anything if it gets inside the tank.

Many thanks again. It is indeed a great list!

Learner.

I assume your are talking about the factory installed short steel nipples. I am also assuming the steel nipple is leaking where it screws into the tank.

It may be easier to buy a new nipple if this one is giving you trouble. For any type of threaded connection, I generally use two turns of teflon AND pipe joint compound. Keep in mind that everyone has their own technique and others will offer correct but different variations. It will not get into the tank if it is applied to just the threads. Nipples need to be installed very tight. I wish I could give you a ft/lb number, but I can't. I use a pipe wrench and do it by feel. The flex that connects to the nipple is a different ballgame and not nearly as tight.

I hope this helps.

Dear jim-connor:

Thank you for your great advice. I've never tried teflon+pipe joint compound.

Your assumptions about my situation are absolutely correct, the nipples were supplied by the factory and installed by me. The only thing that I forgot to tell is that in Kenmore 12-yr tank, which I have, the hot nipple is attached to the second sacrifice rod. Therefore, if I replace it with a plain nipple, I would lose the rod. I might buy another one nipple with the rod if I get desperate but I have to try other ways first.

I think, I will try to tighten it with a 12" pipe wrench really snug with teflon and compound as you suggested. I am afraid to use 24", because that might destroy the threads. If that does not help, I would have to replace the nipple-rod combination. I will try to catch the tank eruption (probably, at the end of the heating cycle) or use some paper stickies to make sure that the water is not coming from the brass nut of the flexible hose. I was afraid to crack the brass nut, so I was tightening it gently, hoping that the black gasket inside will seal it.

Thanks again,

Learner

One thing to check is if the flexible pipe is lined up nice and straight with the nipple. Remove the nut, straighten the pipe and re-tighten.

I have the same tank as you and this worked for me.

Baldwin

Two different brands of water heaters, 3 pairs of nipples, large pipe wrench, muscle, identical results:slow leaks at the nipple threads going into tanks. First using teflon tape, followed by thread compound, followed by lots of teflon tape. Cursing. Finally a trip to Auto Zone for a tube of Permatex form-a-gasket (fast drying/hard setting). Liberal application to nipple threads, light application to female threads. Tightened snugly. One hour setup. Bingo! Life is good.