Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - I need Advice on Resurfacing Concrete Patio

Two years ago my wife and I moved into our new retirement home on Vancouver Island, Canada. Our home has a large (1200 square-foot) concrete patio that now looks awful. Large portions of the patio have taken on a blotchy tan discoloration. This tan color, I suspect, was picked up from the tan-colored sandy “foundation” on which the concrete was poured. There is also considerable pitting and scaling, especially at the end of the pour (the sub-contractor ran out of concrete). Small surface “chunks” have broken away. I would like to know whether there is any “fault” to be placed on the original construction of this concrete patio. Too much water in the mix? Shouldn’t the contractor have used grey colored sand as a foundation so as not to cause discoloration? Also, the patio was constructed by “wheel-barrowing in” all the concrete – whether this procedure contributed to the problems I do not know.

I am also looking for advice on resurfacing the patio. I don’t have a lot of height to work with as there is only about 3 inches between the surface of the patio and the bottom edge of the siding on the house. What are my best options? What about using some type of tile with a rubberized adhesive? Or re-coating the surface? I am interested in something that will stand up to a lot of moisture (damp, rainy conditions and occasional freezing temperatures in winter).

Thanks.

The color does not come from the sand used as a base.
Wheel-barrowing in does not cause a problem unless it was one guy trying to do the entire 1200 sf.
Where I live, there has been a lot of simialr problems with concrete driveways. Concrete companies say the subs wanted too much water and then over-worked it, the subs blame the concrete saying its too much fly ash.

Recoating will work just fine. Quickcrete makes a product geared to the DIYer, called Resurfacer.

Hi- I'm doing a rebuild after bad earthquakes hit house-so here's what I learned /did-- :thinker: ARDEX- much better than Quickcrete.

CP- then CD- Water & avoid overworking must be followed exact.
My concrete guy is used to conventional cement- this is ENGINEERED cement.
I'm in California & got it at a real contractor supply house--not Lowes or HomeDepot- :coffee:

If the surface "chunks" are pieces of concrete, then a repair job could work on them.

If they are "pop-outs" (expansive aggregates), then a repair could hide them if the entire piece of offending aggregate came out. If you have several pop-outs after two years, you may possible see a few more down the road. These are from the aggregate used.

Aggregate is a very local item and you usually have little choice in the color uless you you want a very big add-on. A similar situation applies to pop-outs. There are limitations on the amount allowed for normal construction. All reasonably good aggregate suppliers comply with the requirements, since the standards must be met to supply architecturally controlled or goverment projects. Still, some are permitted.

It is possible to get zero aggregate popouts, but you would not be willing to pay the cost ($100+/yard premium is some areas). Most authorities are willing to accept the very low amount possible in good aggregate.

Dick