Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - stringers
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roadhammer1962
10-30-05, 09:25 AM
Hello im biulding a deck 16 x 12it is 12 feet out from the house . i am wondering witch way to run the stringer . If it is the width way do i have to put a center beam at 8 feet thank .
rdhamm
10-30-05, 07:07 PM
Assuming that the deck is against your home and 12' out from the house, most folks would run the stringers in the 12' direction. You will need some substantial material to prevent deflection over that span (likely 2 X 10's) or better.
You may want to speak with your city or county inspector with regards to minimum span requirements.
You may want to speak with your city or county inspector with regards to minimum span requirements.
paragod
11-05-05, 03:45 AM
Some things to keep in mind when doing a project is whether or not you might sell the house anytime soon. Since the deck will be attached to the house you must make sure it meets county code. There are some variances with codes. But in general this is how it should be built.
1) Attach a "ledger board" to the house. It is best not to attach over any siding but rather to framing, but you can if you do it properly. Either lag screws or #20 nails (galvanized). This would be the 16' long side. If it is an exposed (to the weather) deck of course you will use pressure treated lumber. The ledger will be the same as your joists (stringers).
2) Hang your joists from the ledger (perpindicular to the house) using joist hangers and joist hanger nails. For a deck that is twelve foot most codes will only allow you to cant ( hang over) a beam by 2'. Which means you will be spanning 10' from the house to the beam. You have two choices. Run your joists 24" on center and go with a 2x10, or run 16" on center and run a 2x8 joist.
3) The size of your beam will depend on how many posts you put under it. You will obviously need a 16' beam but can do it with two 8' beams but that means more work. Another consideration is how high off the ground will the deck be. Most codes require a railing on the deck if it is 24" or over ( ground to top of decking). Also make sure you are posting up to the beam from solid ground. Topsoil will settle and you will have a slanted deck. Use some type of concrete pad for you posts to sit on. As for the beam you have options. Go with a beam that is 4x or 6x. In this application you could use a 4x12 beam with a post 2' in from the ends and one in the middle.
4) After figuring out your post height and setting your beam you can run out the very end joists. Attach another ledger on the outside to make a square. Then square it up before attaching the joists to the beam. As it is difficult to move the beam and alll the joists once they are set.
5) Apply decking of your choice. I would recommend screws over nails on any deck surface.
There are obviously a ton of little things not explained but this should give you an idea of how it goes together. There is no absolute one way to build a deck however. It might be worth it to buy a how to book you have never done any carpentry stuff before.
1) Attach a "ledger board" to the house. It is best not to attach over any siding but rather to framing, but you can if you do it properly. Either lag screws or #20 nails (galvanized). This would be the 16' long side. If it is an exposed (to the weather) deck of course you will use pressure treated lumber. The ledger will be the same as your joists (stringers).
2) Hang your joists from the ledger (perpindicular to the house) using joist hangers and joist hanger nails. For a deck that is twelve foot most codes will only allow you to cant ( hang over) a beam by 2'. Which means you will be spanning 10' from the house to the beam. You have two choices. Run your joists 24" on center and go with a 2x10, or run 16" on center and run a 2x8 joist.
3) The size of your beam will depend on how many posts you put under it. You will obviously need a 16' beam but can do it with two 8' beams but that means more work. Another consideration is how high off the ground will the deck be. Most codes require a railing on the deck if it is 24" or over ( ground to top of decking). Also make sure you are posting up to the beam from solid ground. Topsoil will settle and you will have a slanted deck. Use some type of concrete pad for you posts to sit on. As for the beam you have options. Go with a beam that is 4x or 6x. In this application you could use a 4x12 beam with a post 2' in from the ends and one in the middle.
4) After figuring out your post height and setting your beam you can run out the very end joists. Attach another ledger on the outside to make a square. Then square it up before attaching the joists to the beam. As it is difficult to move the beam and alll the joists once they are set.
5) Apply decking of your choice. I would recommend screws over nails on any deck surface.
There are obviously a ton of little things not explained but this should give you an idea of how it goes together. There is no absolute one way to build a deck however. It might be worth it to buy a how to book you have never done any carpentry stuff before.
JCT
11-05-05, 08:40 AM
:rolleyes: :mad: :madhell:
The previous post should be ignored. The administrators of this forum should be hung for not reviewing/removing/editing portions of its content.
ANYONE WHO ATTACHES A DECK TO A HOUSE WITH 20D NAILS BELONGS IN PRISON.
THAT SAID, THIS FORUM SUCKS!!!!
Oh, by the way, I emailed the forum administrator regarding this issue and have as yet to receive any response.
The previous post should be ignored. The administrators of this forum should be hung for not reviewing/removing/editing portions of its content.
ANYONE WHO ATTACHES A DECK TO A HOUSE WITH 20D NAILS BELONGS IN PRISON.
THAT SAID, THIS FORUM SUCKS!!!!
Oh, by the way, I emailed the forum administrator regarding this issue and have as yet to receive any response.
Concretemasonry
11-05-05, 12:55 PM
You are much better off making the deck free standing and not attached to or supported by the you house. This has been proven time and again.
If you feel you must go this route for some overriding reason, attach the ledger with lag bolts to provide a possitive attachment that will not loosen in the future. The legder MUST be flashed to prevent moiture from getting beteen the ledger and your rim joist. It doesn't make much sense to use pressure treated for and then have you rim joist rot away.
Dick
If you feel you must go this route for some overriding reason, attach the ledger with lag bolts to provide a possitive attachment that will not loosen in the future. The legder MUST be flashed to prevent moiture from getting beteen the ledger and your rim joist. It doesn't make much sense to use pressure treated for and then have you rim joist rot away.
Dick