Flooring Tile - Easy grout removal????

Have a shower that is leaking. The entire shower is tiled, old and in need of regrouting. I would like to remove all the old grout, as I believe this is where the leaks are coming from. You can see where others have tried to repair by using a variaty of things (Fix-all, silicon, and who knows what else).

My main question is: Is there a fairly easy way to remove the grout? I have used a grout knife before and remember it wasn't the easiest thing to get the grout out with. Is there a attachment to put on a dremel tool or something like that which would remove some of the physical labor? Trying to work smarter, not harder. :rolleyes:

Your leak is probably more than a grout problem. Is the tile set on drywall? Greenboard? Cament board? Is there a moisture barrier behind whatever is behind the tile?

Your leak is probably more than a grout problem. Is the tile set on drywall? Greenboard? Cament board? Is there a moisture barrier behind whatever is behind the tile?

The shower is in a 1950's - 1960's built cabin. We are located in the desert so the house is on a slab. I am making a lot of assumptions here as I have only looked at the shower once and but figure the first line of defense is the tile and grout, if they leak the rest doesn't matter.
At this point the tiles all seem to be solid on the wall, so would have to assume they are not goint to fall off as we work on it. If they do, we will have to address this issue as we come to it. At this stage, the owner just wants to put a bandaid on the problem.

Tile goes from the floor of the shower to the ceiling, no evidence of what is behind it all with out tearing into it a bit more. (which we may do) However, I will assume the tiles are mounted to Cement board with no moisture barrier.

The problem with the dremel is that the bit can walk as it cuts through the grout causing a chip in the side of a tile. How wide are the grout lines? Have you tried one of the hand held grout saws, (very tedious) or if the joint is a little wider, try a carbide tipped scoring tool used to score and cut cement board. Get down about 2/3 into the joint to give the new grout a foothold. Use caulk in all corners where tile changes plane. Any wall movement will cause the grout in those corners to crack.

I agree with you on the grout saw, that is why I hoping to find some method that was easier.

Grout lines were about 1/8", if I remember correctly.

Maybe a scoring tool will work, but it still won't remove the physical aspect of the job.

I wish the lady would just go for removing tile and backerboard and start from scratch. In the long run I think it would be easier and provide better results. However, she wants to try the regrout option first and see if it solves the problem.

Is there one type of silicon that is better for the shower enclosures than others?

I have used 'GE silicone II Bath and Kitchen' (clear) for many water related applications. I have even used this successfully in several toilet tanks to seal off the tank bolt (even though its not recommended for underwater applications. Its always worked for me. Box stores carry it.

Thanks Jake. I plan on doing this job on the weekend of the 29th, so will start getting things together. That is the other draw back to this job, is it is out in the middle of no where. So I would like to have everything together as I don't want to have to make any additional trips back into town. Gas prices are high and my truck sure does like the taste of it!! :D