Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - new footing for sagging back porch

hello all, recently while remodeling my back porch, i found it necessary to go underneath and resupport the floor. the back porch was not an original part of the house. the porch is approx. 8x8 feet not large at all. but the outside corner is the lowest point. i installed 2 4x6 beams on 2 floor jacks for each beam. now that i have had a few weeks to raise the floor, i notice that the floor has come off the footing and is resting on the new beams i installed. this is ok but the house is a biplex and i am worried about the outermost corner continuing to sink or not rise with the rest of the floor. inspecting the old footing i found it is in very poor shape, i guess the question is now that it is mid october here in west michigan, do i have ample time to pour a new footing and allow it to cure before the freezing temps get here? thanks in advance fellas

You have time to repair the footing. Do not worry about the "magic" 28 days for concrete to cure. You don't need full strength because you loads are so low and the concrete will be relatively thick in comparison to the width.

1. Make the footing deep enough so you are below the frost line.

2. If you have a choice, buy high early strength cement for your mix. If not available, go for the 5000 psi Sakrete.

3. After you pour the footing, cover the footing to retain the heat generated by the concrete and the heat in the ground. You are concerned with the concrete freezing and not the air temperature. Being covered and below ground level you will have time. Start as soon as possible.

Dick

hey guys, i just poured the footing for the back porch and have one more question. how long do i leave the concrete form (tube) in the ground/on the footing i just poured?
thanks again

If you feel you have to remove it, give it a couple of days before you cut and peel it. Then backfill for protection.

Dick

can the form be left on the footing? its all going to be below ground as i will be setting a solid cement "polebarn biscuit" (12" round 4" thick) and then standing a floor jack on that up to the 4"x6" beam that i am using to span the side.

They are left on frequently. Sometimes the top portion is removed for appearance purposes. Some people feel the are less likely to be pulled up by frost because of the waxy surface on some of the tubes.

Any way you do it, it is still better than PT.

Dick